After taking over a 120-year-old building located smack-dab in the centre of Richmond's bustling Bridge Road, Kekou opened in 2019 just months before the global pandemic reared its ugly head. It pivoted to takeaway during lockdown, but now with those days relegated to a distant memory, the pan-Asian restaurant is finally able to dish up its innovative fusion of Southeast Asian cuisine to the masses.
The split-level space pays homage to its historic bones with exposed brick that peeks out from behind concrete walls and beams while adding a modern touch through the juxtaposition of climbing greenery, neon signs and minimalist light fixtures. Choose from bar seating that flanks an impressive 18-tap craft beer selection, or sink into one of the cushioned booths that surround reclaimed wood tables and chairs. The toughest decision you'll have to make all night is choosing between sharing a few dishes off the à la carte menu or indulging in the $79pp 'feed me' menu.
Head chef Oak Kunnalok, who originally hails from Bangkok and is an alumnus of restaurants like Nobu, Chin Chin and Rice Paper Scissors has taken the helm and crafted a Southeast Asian-inspired menu that's rich with all things sweet, sour, salty and spicy. If you can't handle spice, Kekou may not be for you; almost every dish has at least a bit of residual heat, with many having a full-on kick of spiciness. Oysters are topped with a green chilli-infused granita and black caviar, pork and prawn wontons are doused in a hearty serve of Sichuan chilli oil and kingfish sashimi swims in a spicy red nahm jim sauce. It's all balanced, though, with touches of citrus, green papaya, coconut and ice giving your tastebuds some relief from the heat.
The craft beer selection is extensive, and the cocktail program playfully blends Southeast Asian flavours with classic recipes – think a Yuzu Bramble, Ume Sour and Thai Basil Bijou. Wine lovers can also rest assured that they'll be looked after, with a comprehensive and ever-changing wine list of local and international varieties that work in concert with the cuisine.
Looking to kick on after dinner? Check out our guide to the best bars in Richmond.