Part of the small but mighty hospitality group behind Takeaway Pizza, Dexter, Kenny Lover and
the much-anticipated the Keys, Dom’s is the only venue to penetrate the inner-city bubble. And it’s so good, it may just trigger die-hard northsiders to do the same. Sure, there are plenty of other spots to grab a slice, but one worth venturing south of Thornbury for? That’s arguable.
Very few straddle that elusive line of tradition and innovation quite like Dom’s – not even its
sibling, which runs a close second but doesn’t boast the dynamic, three-level venue (rooftop
included). Pies are available venue-wide, and much like Takeaway Pizza, have that classically Italian, woodfired vibe though the toppings like mortadella, thyme and fermented honey or ghost pepper salami and pineapple salsa set them apart from the pack.
The veg options are almost as exciting; the roasted mushroom and truffle cream number is a
particular standout. On paper, it sounds like overkill (do you really need sour cream on a white base?), but it works seamlessly alongside a sharp orange wine to cut through the dairy. There’s also an ever-rotating wild card which, on our visit, has a Latin lean – see the creamed
corn base, finger lime and coriander salsa, and chunks of chorizo – that reinforce the
sentiment that a restaurant is best experienced through its specials board.
Thirty dollars a pop is a hard pill to swallow, especially once you tack on a few glasses of natural wine, but if you’re willing to sacrifice toppings, you can grab a Margherita for just $15 on Wednesday. Margaritas (the kind you drink) are also included in the $15 midweek special though they don’t quite hold up to the sizable and relatively affordable natural wine selection, which features several sub-$60 bottles.
While the pizza’s a pull, Dom’s is a great place for drinking with views over Swanston Street,
booths big enough for groups and a pool table (the pool room can also be booked our for private functions). If you’re visiting for a more casual affair, head up to the semi-covered rooftop instead, which is probably one of the city’s best-kept secrets thanks to its surprisingly mellow atmosphere and better-than-average drink selection.
The venue could be easily missed when passing by at street level but once you’ve had a taste of Dom’s, it’s sure to beckon you back.