James Cornwall – ex-head chef at Melbourne institution Cumulus Inc – has taken over Bonny in Fitzroy, bringing a strong focus on seasonality to the kitchen. Cornwall’s impressive resume includes stints as head chef at Iki Jime for Shannon Bennett in Melbourne, J.Sheekey in London and the Seafood Room in Hong Kong.
While Bonny has previously housed three-month-long pop-ups featuring different rotating chefs, this is the first time a chef will take up a long-term residency in the kitchen, which is open from Thursday to Sunday.
The menu is built around sustainable and wild produce. Try the popular Corner Inlet fillet’o whiting with mornay sauce sandwiched in shokupan, or opt for the pickled Portarlington mussels with spring garlic. There are plenty of bold ingredients popping up on the menu, such as the wild boar scotched eggs and the Flinders Island wallaby tartare with Tasmanian wasabi.
This ethical ethos is echoed in the drinks list (curated by co-owner Adam Betts), which includes local suppliers of small independent breweries, distilleries and wineries. Plus, all wines are kegged, reducing the usual wastage of bottles and labels, with Bonny often being the only place you can find them on tap.
"It's all about bar snacks and small plates that are fun, relaxed but quality," says Cornwall. "We put a lot of effort into sourcing the produce and reducing food waste and general waste. We’re always looking at options, to go direct as much as we can and utilise game and pests – the ‘eat the problem’ ethos matters to me.”