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You could easily spend a day out in Belgrave, thanks to the many stunning forest walks around the Dandenong Ranges’ rolling foothills. But don’t overlook the main drag – its quaint collection of hippy-ish boutiques, secondhand shops and cute bars swiftly putting to rest the idea that Puffing Billy and fresh mountain air are the suburb’s best drawcards. One restaurant here is even reputed to dish up some of the finest southern Indian food in the state, which is precisely why my partner and I make the hour-long trip from Melbourne one Saturday afternoon.
Babaji’s Kerala Kitchen isn’t difficult to find. Its exterior paint job is a summery swatch of pastel turquoises and pinks, like coloured T-shirts you’ve thrown into the wash. Inside, you’re met with a long dining hall decorated with golden drapery, palm leaves and ornate lanterns. During the course of our visit, the place gradually fills up with local couples, Indian families out to lunch and groups of friends sipping on chai tea. It feels like a festival that’s open all year long, and we’re glad to be a part of it.
It was one of the world’s best-selling cookbooks, 50 Great Curries of India, that fully opened my eyes to the science behind Indian cuisine’s lovability. Author Camellia Panjabi explains in her introduction how Indian food’s mastery of balance is rooted in the ancient healing system of ayurveda. And if you want to taste the complexity and diversity of this cuisine first-hand, I can think of no better place in Melbourne to visit than Babaji’s. It was founded by chef Babaji Nair as a sort of love letter to Kerala, a region in India famed for its lush landscapes and fascinating culinary heritage – think fragrant seafood curries, tender biryanis, street food snacks like idli, dosa and pav bhaji, and a variety of vegetarian dishes that showcase local ingredients with an Indian twist.
Babaji’s journey began on wheels, with a food truck that rolled across Victoria,, dishing out mouthwatering, authentic Keralan fare. It was a taste of home for many and a new adventure for locals. Eventually, the success of the truck led Babaji to plant roots in Belgrave.
I’ve ordered a sadya (a traditional Keralan vegetarian meal), which comes out in all its 13-component glory, served on a banana leaf. My partner’s got himself a thali plate and we’ve also got a Keralan beef fry to share.
The sadya is a dish to behold. In front of me are a range of vegetarian gravies: a creamy and comforting perripu, a thick and spicy sambar (complete with delicious moringa stalks), a soupy and tangy rasam, and a tart and funky curd. Spread across the rest of the banana leaf is an assortment of vibrant vegetables and fruits in various preparations, from the sweet snap of the sharkara upperi banana chips to melt-in-the-mouth avial. In the centre, upon glossy pearls of tender Kerala matta rice, sits a crisp and nutty papad. The Indian culinary magic expressed here is that every gravy, side or pickle carries its own distinct flavour, its own colour, its own unique slurp or crunch. The beef fry is rich and spicy, the perfect meaty main to go alongside.
The Kingfisher beer and coconut toddy (a type of fruit wine) we enjoy with our meal go down a treat, but most impressive perhaps are the drinks we enjoy at the end: a cardamom-scented chai and Indian coffee, served in a traditional brass dabara tumbler set.
What truly sets Babaji’s apart is its heart. This isn’t just about food; it’s about the richness of Indian culture prepared and parcelled out in a way you can taste. Whether you’re a local or a wandering soul in search of something authentic, you’ll find that Babaji’s has a way of making you feel right at home.