Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
When it comes time to celebrate a milestone event, you want to go somewhere that feels special, right? Perhaps it’s a place with an air of glamour or exclusivity, or maybe you just want a night of pure escapism where you can indulge in gorgeous food and drinks in the most beautiful of settings.
Down on the Mornington Peninsula in Sorrento, there’s really only one establishment to go for such an elevated dining experience: Audrey’s at the Continental Hotel. And so it’s there I head to mark my mum’s birthday (no, I won’t be divulging how old she turned – but let’s just say it’s a biggie), all dressed up and ready to sip something fancy.
The interior of Audrey’s – we’re talking plush velvet banquettes, glass chandeliers and white tablecloths – invites a swish dress code if you feel so inclined. It still feels pristine more than two years on from a multi-million dollar transformation that saw the entire Conti precinct reborn as an all-encompassing destination featuring a hotel, day spa and multiple dining spaces. Audrey’s occupies the upper level with gorgeous seaside views, and it remains helmed by Scott Pickett (Smith St Bistrot, Estelle, Chancery Lane, to name a few), whose grandmother is the restaurant’s namesake.
Once settled in a corner booth, we begin our degustation ($170 for the set menu) with a round of cocktails. The Lychees in Bombay is my pick from the pleasant list of crowd-pleasers, and it’s a sugary-sweet combo of Bombay Sapphire gin, rose syrup, prosecco and lychee sorbet. Pale pink in colour and ice-cold, it’s the type of bevvie I’d happily reorder on a hot summer’s arvo.
The bread (complete with two different kinds of butter: garlic and truffle) and snacks arrive, and of the three bite-sized morsels, the Coopers Island oysters stand out. Topped with finely diced Granny Smith apples and dill, they are lip-smackingly briny in the best possible way. The whipped cod crumpet topped with Yarra Valley salmon roe is suitably creamy, while the kingfish, avocado and seaweed cracker is a smidge dry and could benefit from an extra squeeze of lime.
By now I’ve moved on to a glass of the Ocean Eight pinot gris – a local wine recommended by our server – and it’s a crisp and refreshing tipple that pairs nicely with the next few courses. One of which is the Fraser Island spanner crab with egg custard, uni and white soy. Served cold (which I didn’t expect) and with a slightly chewy texture, the saltiness is almost overpowering, but the savoury butteriness of the uni manages to salvage it.
Pickett’s deep blue-inspired take on his grandmother’s classic spag bol with Mornington Peninsula squid noodles and an intensely sumptuous shiitake XO sauce remains a winner. It’s silky and delicate while still packing a flavour punch, and a true showcase of Pickett’s innovative nature. The king dory fish bathing in a native lime beurre blanc sauce that follows is also hard to fault.
My hot tip when the time comes to make a call on the additional Wagyu course: just do it. Among an ocean of lovely seafood courses, this was my highlight. Cooked to absolute perfection (I loathe to say “melt in your mouth”, but that’s the only way to describe it) and accompanied by locally foraged mushrooms, beans and a rich, comforting onion soubise, it had the entire table swooning. One of our vegetarian dining companions was even tempted to take a bite – and yes, he loved it too.
Of the desserts, it’s the simple yet supremely satisfying slices of queen garnet plum with dollops of créme fraiche and lemon balm that leave a zing on my tongue. Gone in two bites, I could have savoured the entire plate to myself they were so moreish. The more substantial vacherin of rhubarb, apple and ginger – a beautifully layered pink creation that matches the hue of my cocktail from earlier – is also toothsome, and far sweeter than the plum precursor.
To cap it all off, a selection of petit fours arrives and my mum’s plate is adorned with a special candle, which is a cute touch. It’s the little things like this – acknowledging a birthday, relaxed banter from the attentive waitstaff, a comfortable setting – that have cemented Audrey’s reputation as a respected fine diner. The only downside? How to top my mum’s birthday next year. Audrey’s, we may just see you again.