Greek food's so hot right now. From last year's Kafeneion craze to Yarraville's Tzaki and Oakleigh's new wine bar Olympia, a fresh spate of offerings is meeting Melbourne's craving for a contemporary style of Greek cuisine – recipes that have been reimagined or revitalised for this time and this place, while redolent of their history and tradition.
Astoria Bar Kè Grill is the newest venue to join the Hellenic boom, a sleek and relaxed restaurant from hospo veteran Nik Pouloupatis. Here's a restaurateur who once worked front-of-house for Grossi Florentino, armed with a resume that spans the likes of Attica and Vue de Monde. Bringing to the fore 17 years' worth of experience as a chef (in addition to his many other hats), Pouloupatis has earned a unique 360-degree perspective on the makings of a venue's success. But at its heart, his new restaurant is a deeply personal project.
“After years in the hospitality industry, I know that my passion for food and community is inseparable. The idea of being a small business owner has always appealed to me, and I feel a deep connection to my roots," he shares. "I still have my parents around to draw inspiration from, allowing me to learn and cherish the old dishes, techniques, and traditions that have been passed down which, in turn, fuels my desire to share those comforting flavours with a new generation."
The beautiful Victorian terrace space once occupied by Shadowboxer is where Astoria's chapter begins. Guests can expect classics dishes and techniques that have passed down by Pouloupatis' parents and family with a modern twist.
Start with small share-style plates like crisp spanakopita, zucchini fritters served with fresh tzatziki and pickled Freo octopus. Larger mains also invite communal eating, such as the seared snapper with asparagus, mussels and succulent avgolemono (a traditional lemon-egg sauce) or the youvetsi, a nourishing lamb stew with Greek pasta.
A long lunch or celebration meal isn't complete without a good drink; here, the list has been designed to complement the bold flavours. Get a bottle of Greek or Australian wine for the table with plenty of top-notch drops available to try by the glass, or explore the selection of craft beers, cocktails (Ouzo Sour, anyone?) and non-alcoholic options.
Make a booking at the website.