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An intimate 10-seat sushi diner for elite DIY hand rolls lands in Melbourne

A fresh new offering from the Onigiri Kitchen crew, Temaki puts you in the driver’s seat

Written by
Quincy Malesovas
Contributor
Assorted sushi.
Photograph: Hugh Davison
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Since opening in 2023, Onigiri Kitchen has earned a loyal following for its compact, housemade rice balls – a fast, affordable lunch staple in the CBD. The concept quickly took off, spawning another takeaway store a few doors down and a larger outpost on Degraves Street. Now, the team is branching out with something a little more elevated: an intimate temaki omakase experience served out of their original shopfront. 

Temaki Sushi, as it’s called, invites guests to build their own temaki (cone-shaped hand rolls) from a changing lineup of seasonal ingredients. Chef Hiroshi Uchiyama says the idea was to give diners more agency; showcase the fresh, organic produce that underpins the restaurants; and offer an interactive spin on more traditional hand roll concepts.

“I thought it was time for the guests to play a little bit more,” he says. “I want the customers to have fun.”

The $145 set menu includes eleven dishes featuring fresh seafood, meat and produce from owner Allan Greenfield’s century-old Ferndale Organics farm. They’re served at once on housemade ceramic platters along with unlimited rice and nori so guests can customise their rolls as they please.

Diner making their own hand roll.
Photograph: Hugh Davison

Fillings range from classic Japanese pairings like unagi tamagoyaki (soy-glazed eel and egg omelette) to more unexpected dishes – think salmon with ricotta and sweet white miso; seared wagyu with mashed potato and Japanese barbecue sauce; or ginger-soy eggplant with kiwi and bonito. Each set also comes with a selection of condiments including wasabi, yuzu kosho (a zesty green chilli paste) and umeboshi paste to layer on extra flavour as they please.

The meal starts with a welcome sake, a rotating small plate like miso-glazed konnyaku skewers, and miso soup, then finishes with somen noodles, dessert and small-batch green tea from Mount Fuji. Beverages including wine, beer and soft drinks are imported exclusively from Japan.

Only ten diners are seated per session, with a front-row view of the bar where Uchiyama carefully plates each component. The dishes are served on handmade ceramics crafted by Greenfield at his studio in Sassafras, rounding out an experience that’s as personal as it is playful.

You can find Temaki at 15 Little Collins St where they serve their set menu every Thursday through Saturday from 5:30pm to 9:30pm.

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