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An ol’ disco classic once preached to us that ‘young hearts run free’, and at this eclectic Windsor establishment, it seems they certainly do. So it’s quite fitting that the bar’s moniker quotes a lyric from soul singer Candi Staton’s 1976 record.
But is that what it takes to make a great bar? A feeling of letting your hair down? Freedom from the nine-to-five grind? If escapism into the glory days is central to the average Southside watering hole’s recipe for success, then yes, Young Hearts – a boozy enclave hidden upstairs from High Street – gets it right.
We’ve chosen a Saturday night to experience the bar in peak pre-drinks mode, and we’re not disappointed. Upon ascending the staircase, we’re warmly enveloped by its moody warehouse-like interiors. Hello, NYC apartment. Colourful wall-to-wall artworks showcase the latest exhibitor and a loft-style mezzanine floor looks cosy and chic upstairs. I almost feel like I could be in an episode of Sex and the City’s earlier seasons. Time to channel my inner Carrie.
My Mr Big? Well, I’ve brought along the boyfriend and luckily, he’s no flake when it comes to these sorts of missions. We’re here on business – to eat, drink and kick back. The centrepiece of the entire operation is a circular stage-in-the-round DJ station, where an expert music curator mans the decks. It’s housey, fun and quite frankly, dance-able stuff.
But while everything I’ve described may sound swanky (and even a little wanky to some), I’m pleased to report that Young Hearts keeps it real. Though we don’t have a booking and the place is pretty full – there’s a birthday reservation for about 40 peeps – our down-to-Earth host is quick to find a solution and seat us somewhere comfortable. Drinks lists and menus are handed out quickly, cocktails ordered and food decisions made: we’re in and we’re happy to be here.
You could easily have a full dinner at Young Hearts, but it’s much more of a bar than a restaurant. Its small plates are described as "food designed for easy listening", and you’re far better off having a nibble of several different items than hitting your budget limit all at once on a larger dish. Besides, you’d rather save your dosh for the cocktails, which are actually a very good time.
Take the Saketini, for example – a seductive elixir of Grainshaker vodka, sake, Lillet Blanc and rhubarb bitters. Or the Spiced In, which delivers a slick kick of habanero oil to its cucumber, mint and lemon-flavoured Patient Wolf gin base. We marry these bevs with our first snack of the night: fried potato royale oblongs, topped with some sort of Old Bay seasoning-spiked spanner crab mixture. Salty, herby and yum: sometimes that’s all you want.
A pair of succulent Wagyu skewers with black bean and crispy garlic dial up our protein macros, which is about the same time our host checks in to see if everything’s OK. It somehow happens that we order two pickleback shots (these ones come with Bulleit bourbon and pickle juice chaser), and we’re amazed to remember just how delicious this American ritual is. Not all bars offer the experience, so it’s always nice to find one that does.
The vino at Young Hearts won’t leave you wanting, with excellent local producers like Dirty Black Denim and Slurpy Boi making an appearance on the wine list, as well as other interesting choices such as German riesling and predictably great cab sauv from Margaret River.
We can’t resist a plate of fried chicken to conclude our snacks for the night, and it comes slathered with hot honey, pickles, mango and chipotle. The juicy, US-style meat tastes as decadent as it sounds, and we don’t feel self-conscious at all sucking the last bits off the bones.
Note that chefs rotate at Young Hearts with bi-annual kitchen residencies, so the menu might look very different by the time that you head in. We do know, however, that acclaimed chef James Cornwall (Cumulus Inc, J Sheekey) is currently taking over the pans and will now be a permanent fixture to usher in future rotating chefs.
Can’t make it on a weekend? There’s Wagyu Wednesdays, while Live Thursdays see some of Melbourne's most prolific jazz and soul artists play on a fortnightly basis. This event showcases a diverse cross-section of local talent on stage and on the turntables.
In an era where grunge and keeping everything as casual as possible seems to be ubiquitous, it’s nice to head out to a bar that feels cool yet classy, where you feel like you want to dress to impress. It’s got that Southside promise of “maybe I’ll meet my soulmate, maybe I’ll have a dance, maybe I’ll stay out all night” energy to it, but it’s also just a fun place to hang out, eat some good food and listen to some good music.
Young Hearts, you’ve made us feel free, for sure.