Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Having opened late last year under the stewardship of an experienced team, Torino Aperitivo has been around long enough now to have found its groove. Brought to you by the team behind Beneath Driver Lane, this CBD spot aims to to infuse Melbourne’s bar scene with a drop of Italian aperitivo culture.
Right off the bat, the space is great. Torino Aperitivo has taken over the spot once occupied by Penny Blue, and in the transition from craft beer specialist to Italian aperitivo bar, the venue has undergone a significant (and impressive) transformation. Its renovation brings a fresh coat of paint and some Italian flair, with stylish green booths, green tones and brass accents throughout. The centrepiece is an expansive bar topped with green quartz, complete with a small Tuscan-inspired fountain with a face that dispenses Negroni from its mouth. Visually, Torino Aperitivo is undeniably appealing. But as we know, in hospo, looking good is only part of the battle.
We visit twice — once on a Tuesday and again on a Friday night — and the atmosphere on both occasions is a little hushed. Torino Aperitivo seats 75 inside and around 20 in the laneway outside, so there’s plenty more room for the after work crowd if they learn it’s there. Essential parts of real Italian aperitivo culture are the people, the noise, the sense that something’s happening. If Torino can attract more liveliness, its energy will hopefully match its brief in time.
It’s a new venue, to be sure, but it might also benefit from polishing up its service too, based on our experience. When asked about the bar’s most popular cocktail, our server says he doesn’t really favour cocktails. A surprising answer, even in a casual setting with mates, and we’d hoped at least for a recommendation or two.
After a second attempt at getting some proper intel, we're finally informed that the Pink Tutu (made with 42 Below Vodka, Campari, peach, grapefruit, and lemon) is popular. It's worth the back-and-forth because the cocktail goes down well. In fact, most of them do.
From Tuesday to Saturday, 5pm to 7pm is ‘aperitivo hour,’ offering $6 beer and house wine, $12 Spritzes and mini Martinis, and $14 Negronis and espresso Martinis. According to Torino’s website, the first order from this menu will come with “complimentary bites” — something we’re not offered on both occasions we visit. Perhaps it’s something you need to ask for if you want it?
Credit where it’s due, $6 beer and wine is always nice, as are the $14 espresso Martinis and Negronis – even if the latter drinks are a little smaller than regular-sized cocktails. Extra points for making an espresso Martini that isn't sickly sweet — it’s one of the better budget-friendly espresso Martinis we’ve tried in town.
The food menu is a mixed bag. The focaccia ($6) is unforgivably stale — a crime that would be punishable by death on the peninsula. The Arancini alla Milanese with saffron aioli ($18) fares better, but it’s the Rigatoni Boscaiola with mushrooms, thyme, and pecorino ($30) that’s the standout dish of the evening. Rich, earthy, and satisfying, it’s the saving grace on the food front.
In theory, Torino Aperitivo has all the elements of a successful venue — a clear concept, a prime location, beautiful fit-out, and a connection to an already successful bar. In practice, however, there are a few tweaks needed to make it really come alive.
If you find yourself in the neighbourhood and in need of a refreshing, good-value Spritz, or you’re looking for somewhere close to your city CBD office for after-work drinks, it's a good spot to know about – at least until you can snag flights to Turin.