Getting a beer in St Kilda is easy. Shut your eyes, spin around for a few seconds, start walking in a straight line in any direction, and you'll hit a spot for a pint in no time at all. But a nice cosy nook to sip a wine and suck on a proper fresh oyster? You may be walking for a while – at least, that was the case until the Walrus showed up.
Stepping through the doors of the Walrus is like crossing a threshold into a golden, warm oasis (the fact that we visited on a partially freezing Saturday night in Melbourne only added to this feeling). The space, awash in moody yellows and deep greens, exudes a welcoming vibe that's hard to resist. It's clear that owners (and IRL couple) Marty Webster and Amy McGouldrick have poured their years of industry experience into creating something special. The result is a bar that feels both fresh and familiar, like a best friend you’re meeting for the first time.
Nestled in the heart of St Kilda, the Walrus stands as a testament to the simple pleasures of fresh oysters and good wine. It's the kind of place that encourages lingering, where one glass easily turns into two, and a quick bite evolves into a full evening's indulgence. Just one more glass, one more bivalve.
If you haven’t guessed by now, oysters are the star of the show. The selection changes regularly, reflecting the ebb and flow of Australia's coastlines. On any given night, you might find yourself savouring the creamy sweetness of Merimbula, the briny punch of Boomer Bay, or the intense minerality of the rare Wild Angasi – the only wild-caught oyster in the Southern Hemisphere. Each variety is shucked to order, ensuring peak freshness and flavour.
If the oysters are the stars, the supporting cast also shines bright. The menu offers a thoughtfully curated selection of seafood-centric dishes. The sea urchin pasta is a standout, balancing the complex umami of the sea with perfectly creamy al dente conchiglioni (big shells).
The oyster pâté is a revelation – smooth, rich, and spread on crusty bread with just enough give to the bite. The crab crêpes, delicate parcels of joy, further cement the Walrus's seafood credentials.
But it’s the salted ice cream sandwich that steals the show. In a perfect world, we'd finish every meal for the rest of our lives with one of these – hell, maybe even two. It's a small bite of heaven, the perfect balance of sweet and salt, cold and creamy. A fitting end to a meal that celebrated contrasts: hot and cold, rich and light, familiar and surprising.
The wine list is a journey in itself. Focusing on lesser-known varieties and regions, it offers an opportunity for exploration without intimidation, with helpful and warm staff willing to explain and recommend with sincere amiability and sans pretension. With many glasses priced between $14 and $15, it encourages you to venture beyond your usual choices.
The cocktail menu, while not extensive, offers a selection of classics with a twist. Here, the cocktails have numbers, not names, so the ingredients can call out to you unhindered by nominal burden. Oh, and don’t worry if you’re after something not on the menu – you can get all the classics here; just say the word.
It's the little touches that elevate the Walrus from good to exceptional. The vinyl records spinning in the background create a soundtrack that's both nostalgic and modern, depending on what's spinning. Even the toilets are a warm experience – literally, given the Japanese-style toilets have heated seats.
The Walrus doesn't shout its sophistication, it whispers it – if it announces it at all. It stands out by focusing on quality and simplicity and damn good taste. It's not about reinvention, but rather perfection of the classics. Here, the oysters are fresh, the wine flows freely, and the welcome is warm.
As the evening winds down and you reluctantly prepare to leave, you'll likely find yourself already planning your next visit. The Walrus has that effect – it draws you in with its charm, satisfies with its offerings, and leaves you wanting more.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.