One or Two.
Photograph: Kristoffer Paulsen

Review

One or Two

5 out of 5 stars
One Or Two should be named Five Or Six because that's how many cocktails you'll want at this exemplary watering hole
  • Bars | Cocktail bars
  • Melbourne
  • Recommended
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Time Out says

Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.

Any epicure worth their dirty martini knows that an unassuming alley often holds the best treasures. One or Two is further proof of this. 

Located down a backstreet in the heart of Chinatown, this cocktail bar delivers cool and contemporary without pretence. 

Stepping through the understated black door will immediately transport you to Shimokitazawa in Tokyo. And I don't mean the flashy, neon-lighted, anime-character-ed interpretation that Melbourne hospo often attempts. I mean the real, effortless, and timeless version.

This conveyance I experienced upon entering One Or Two is no coincidence. Owner Andy Chu designed the bar with the Japanese aesthetic of "Wabi Sabi" in mind. Celebrating transience and imperfection, Wabi Sabi aims to highlight the beauty in impermanence. 

The small bar is intimate, with space for just 24 people. With dim lighting, dark wood finishes, and slate-tiled floors, it’s quietly romantic and makes for an excellent date spot.

Although I see nothing "imperfect" about the space, it conveys the feeling of serenity synonymous with the philosophy. 

However, the R and B tunes blaring from the sound system are less serene and more vibey, encapsulating the harmonious blend of tradition and modernity One or Two pervades. 

The menu divides the cocktails into subsections under the headings' All Time,' 'Original,' 'Reimagination,' and 'Guest Bar.

All-time cocktails are the classic Margarita, Martini and Old Fashioned; this trio is constant, and cocktails under the other three headings rotate every few months. 

Although One or Two has a distinctly Japanese feel, it dedicates itself to the city where it exists. What better way to pay homage to Melbourne than with an 'Anchovy Toast' cocktail ($28)?

Like any self-respecting Melbourne foodie, I've eaten my fair share of anchovy toasts. I've enjoyed them at breakfast, as a snacky finger food and in myriad other ways. But I've never drunk one.

The cocktail contains Monkey Shoulder scotch, XO sauce, chilli, and sourdough. It arrives in a chilled tumbler with the standard ice pillar, adorned with a decidedly un-standard crostini bread smothered in anchovy mousse—(As a side note, my regard for a cocktail goes up 100% if there is a solid, edible garnish.)

There's a lovely dichotomy between the cold liquid and the warming sensation of the scotch. It feels like drinking a magic potion that starts cold and then transforms into warmth in the belly. The cocktail is smooth and subtle, and instead of umami notes, I get a slight sweetness. The scotch has attenuated the umami and salty notes, and I wouldn't mind if they ramped those up a bit. 

Unsurprisingly, the eponymous toast is delicious—I'd like ten more, please. 

The Guest Bar cocktails are created using recipes from featured cocktail bars worldwide. On my visit, the recipes were from Night Hawk in Singapore. The server tells me they reimagine the recipes using Australian ingredients to celebrate local producers.

As a gin drinker since my eighteenth birthday (and not a day before Mum, promise), I order the Gamma-ray Holiday ($23), made with Melbourne Gin Company gin, melon, pineapple, bitter gourd, lime and soda. 

They serve the drink in a tall glass with some candied pineapple.

The drink transitions from sweet to fruity to bitter. I marvel at how such an evolution of flavours can occur in just one sip. Although the bitterness may be too much for me, I can't help but return to this cocktail for "just one more sip" until it is gone. 

Like the anchovy toast cocktail, there is whimsy and exploration in this drink, and I may have stumbled across the basis of One Or Two.

Every cocktail is playful and intriguing, ostensibly designed with childhood whimsy, but the flavours pack a genuine, adult punch. 

The Slipper Transistor ($26), also from the guest menu, is made with Morris Australian Whiskey, peanut butter, cassis, almond, and chocolate bitters. It could have been a garish dessert cocktail in less capable hands, but this execution is pure sophistication. Refined, boozy, and mature, it is the perfect drink to satisfy both the child and adult within you. 

This delicate blend of frivolity and earnestness is a line that One Or Two toes perfectly. Only those with a proper understanding of their craft could master this balancing act with such success, and I commend the team for what they have created. 

Encapsulating this synthesis are the Shiso Shock ($25) and Turkish Delight Punch ($26), both from the "Original" list. The former is delightfully sour and dangerously drinkable, and the latter is an on-trend clarified milk punch appropriation of Narnia's most clandestine offering.

Serendipitously, you can find One Or Two just a hop and skip (or stumble?) across from the hospitality stalwart Supper Inn. This means that after sufficiently liquoring yourself, you can head across the alley for some prime Melbourne dumplings. 

A match made in heaven? I certainly think so. 

Also, make sure you visit the bathroom. It's gorgeous. The thoughtful addition of the heater so that you can warm your tootsies while you wash your hands is all class.

Need a bite after hours? Here are Melbourne's best late-night eats.

Details

Address
18 Celestial Avenue
Melbourne
Melbourne
3000
Opening hours:
Tue-Sat 4pm-1am
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