Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
In ancient Greece, Olympia was considered the valley of the gods. While Melbourne’s version – a wine and cocktail bar perched above the suburban bustle of Oakleigh’s main street – might not reach such divine heights, there’s something undeniably celestial about it that makes the name feel apt.
The venue is split between an indoor wine bar on the first level and a rooftop space that’s the real showstopper. Set atop a section of the carpark above Oakleigh Market, the open-air bar leans heavily into the area’s Greek heritage and the owners’ roots. Whitewashed walls, olive trees, and rustic accents evoke a classic Santorini taverna – though instead of ocean views and whitewashed cliffside homes, the outlook of power lines and palm trees are decidedly Melbourne.
We arrive outside of peak hours, but Olympia’s flexible setup lends itself to all occasions: casual lunches, afternoon drinks, or aperitivo, which began in Greece despite being popularised by Italy. As is common in Greek cuisine, dishes are designed to share, though Olympia opts for a small-plate format rather than the supersized portions typical of Oakleigh’s other Greek eateries. Don’t expect towering platters of grilled meats or hefty slices of moussaka. With the exception of the lobster and prawn rolls, most offerings fall squarely into the snack category, making a spread the best way to approach the menu.
Drinks arrive promptly – an excellent amaretto sour and a Kokkino, a seasonal riff on a Paper Plane layering bourbon, Aperol, Montenegro, lemon, ginger, and a shiraz float. Food takes longer, appearing nearly over half an hour later with an apology and a complimentary round of Greek wine. While the service isn’t exceptionally attentive, the gesture turns a frustrating delay into a redeeming moment, and the food solidifies the recovery.
The dolmades, seemingly house-made, are fresh and tangy without excessive oiliness, though $17 for four could feel steep for some. The pickled Fremantle octopus, also $17 for a modest portion, could benefit from a touch more salt and tenderization.
The standout is the meatballs, shaped like elongated kofta and served in a rich tomato sauce with flatbread. At $24, they’re hearty, flavourful, and satisfying enough to stand in as a solo meal. While I personally enjoy the briny punch of saganaki, Olympia’s croquette version tones things down – an easy crowd pleaser that goes down well with a crisp glass of sauv blanc. It’s also a fitting representation of a menu that straddles the line between tradition and modernity.
There are plenty of places in Oakleigh to find a hearty Greek feast, a Mythos beer, a frappe. Olympia isn’t one of them. Drawing on the area’s rich heritage and the modern Melbourne wine bar scene, it represents a new generation of local venues that still honours its predecessors. Though it may not be infallible, its ambition and charm shine through – a refreshing change of pace that doesn’t stray too far from home.