Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
It’s almost as if a bunch of jaded publicans recently got together at a committee meeting and unanimously agreed: the old-school Aussie pub experience needs to come back. Such is the revival of the vintage pub (pubcore?) experience in Melbourne right now, one can’t help but muse at the irony of something built on reversing trends… well, becoming somewhat of a trend.
But hey, we’re not complaining. It’s about time you could once again get a proper VB or Carlton Draught on tap (‘cause mate, all that craft shite’s hoppier than a cane toad infestation) and get stuck into a gravy-drenched schnitty at your inner-city local. G’day mate, indeed.
Last year, the Albion Hotel in Collingwood reopened to embrace its OG ‘70s design and a dedication to serving only schooners. Next, Fitzroy’s Punters Club was reborn, willingly paying homage to its legendary ‘90s era with a gig program, banana splits and even juicy dim sims on the menu. Brunswick’s recently refurbished Hotel Railway also feels like a nod to the not-too-distant past, with its packs of mates watching the footy over a round of frothies and youngsters huddled outside to roll cigs and talk politics – mullets, flannies and all.
And now adding to the northside wave of true-blue Aussie pub revivals, we have the North Fitzroy Arms. On previous visits, I thought of it as a place to get a frosty pint and stare at all the footy paraphernalia as a kind of dissociative anthropological exercise. These days, this tucked-away corner pub retains the spirit of the AFL, but is now utterly refreshed and offering a far more inviting experience than ever before. On weekends, it’s absolutely abuzz with families, pets and groups of friends playing pool – a welcome boost of energy to this historic neighbourhood watering hole that’s long needed a bit of love. The outdoor courtyard is a particularly tempting proposition on sunny afternoons.
Though I can sense its energy has been restored, I’m most interested in the food glow-up. The kitchen has decided on a somewhat contemporary revival of retro Aussie recipes – think a pie floater with green pea gravy, steak and crowd-pleasing sticky date pudding for dessert.
So how does the ‘contemporary’ part come in? Seamlessly, in my opinion. The aforementioned pie floater is far more sophisticated than one might anticipate at first glance, its golden pastry filled with thick-cut, ale-braised beef cheek and a tastefully balanced housemade gravy – nothing at all like the mysterious mince meat of a servo pie. Yet it carries the same gelatinous, flavour-packed familiarity of one, and the lightly minted pea sauce is its perfect traditional ally. Thank you and hoo roo.
The retired dairy cow cheeseburger sounds highfalutin, but old-school burger lovers are sure to have no beef (pardon the pun). This is a flippin’ good burger (I can’t stop), its beef not too fatty, its richness instead coming from a generous dollop of burger sauce and tasty American cheese. The chips are fat and crisp.
Whatever you do, don’t skip the sticky date pud. This heaven-sent slab of delight is extremely moist with a thick crumb, and the delicate malt ice cream it’s cushioned against far outshines plain vanilla. That caramel sauce, too, is just chef’s kiss.
For drinks, there’s a solid round-up of cocktails, but we want to stick to old-school beer and wine. The pub’s signature Arms Ale is pale, light and decidedly inoffensive. A very easy pint to sink down and immediately want another.
Remember the days when a pub’s house wine tasted more vinegary than your friend’s dad’s home winemaking project? Fortunately, the Fitzroy North Arms leaves this phenomenon in the past where it belongs. My house chardonnay (Arms Table Blanc) is an excellent value drop.
Pub vintage is in vogue, and the North Fitzroy Arms is nailing it. But best of all, this doggo-friendly destination feels like it was curated especially for the local community, and I haven’t experienced a more welcoming vibe – or top-notch pub menu – in yonks. There are definitely fancier eats and vegan options if you’re bringing along a diverse crew of dietaries, and the TV screens ensure you’ll never miss a game. So give it a go on your next wander; just don’t be surprised if you stay on for an extra pint or two.