North Melbourne is having a moment. In the last eighteen months, locals have been blessed with a spate of of exciting gastronomic events: the renewal of Italian restaurant Sosta Ristorante; the cosy refurbishment and reopening of the Courthouse Hotel; the location migration of Moroccan Soup Bar; and the sustainable reno and menu glow-up at the historic Central Club Hotel. And that’s without even paying mention to the openings of funky new vino spots Pour Diane and Lumen People.
The latter is where we’re shining a light today – a sleek day-to-night café and wine bar from Emma Sheahan and Marichi Clarke.
We arrive on the dot at 6pm one Friday night to discover a quiet atmosphere – it looks and feels like your typical inner-city brunch café, except one that’s strangely open after dark. Soulful jams fill the space, and we sneak a peek at the bags of coffee beans for sale along the walls. The Scandi-leaning decor is clean and minimal, almost as if to seem purposefully bare. But those who don’t know Lumen People in its night mode are missing out; what follows is an intentional and touching wine bar experience.
But first, a cocktail. After chatting about all the different kinds of Martini types with our generous and personable hostess, she asks me how I like mine and so I opt for a dirty gin Martini. It’s slippery and flawless with a big fat green olive at the bottom. I totally needed this after a long day, and I melt into the wooden chair. I’m in good hands here.
The wine chat is on point – knowledgeable, curious and brimming with suggestions tailored to our tastes. Whether you’re someone who only knows if they prefer red or white or you’re a seasoned expert, the staff certainly don’t mind letting you taste a few drops before you take your pick.
Amongst the wines we try, there’s a Georgian mtsvane and rkatsiteli blend by Qvanasheni (try saying that ten times fast), which lights up our synapses with the surprising impression of miso. One cabernet sauvignon from Miseenplace unexpectedly evokes salt and vinegar chips. There’s also a savagnin from Macedon’s Defialy (the Pale Blue Eyes), and thrillingly, it tastes a bit like a birthday cake. We’re told it’s their favourite right now, and we can see why. This sort of wild and whimsical wine is not so easy to come across.
In line with current trends, there’s a focus at Lumen People on natural, minimum intervention producers, so you’re bound to encounter some interesting flavours. It’s an eccentric collection, but what’s most special is that while the staff are true professionals, all the tasting notes are delivered to you in a way that feels down to earth. It’s a preferences-driven conversation, not a viticulture lesson. We’re having fun and I can’t say that about all of Melbourne’s wine bars.
Though we’ve only opted for a few bites at Lumen People, the dishes we do order are enough to comprise a satisfying dinner.
A hearty tartine comes loaded with creamy-rich brussel sprouts, ricotta, nduja, buckwheat and flat-leaf parsley: a mind-melting open sanga to commence proceedings. We savour the juiciness of a plump housemade pork and fennel sausage resting amongst an oil-slick scattering of Mt Zero beluga lentils, hardy stems of broccolini splayed out on top. If only getting your five-in-a-day veggie intake was always this delicious.
It’s wonderful how unique a dish can taste when the chef relaxes into the ingredients and, interestingly, tampers less. Each item on the menu allows its produce to shine thanks to the prowess of chef Marichi Clarke on the pans. We mop up the spoils with excellent bread and butter.
A special on the night, an apricot and cardamom parfait with hazelnuts is a little on the too-frosty side (we like ours slightly meltier). But fragrant, delicious and tastefully decorated with marigold leaves, it’s a dessert we’re glad we end the night on. The salt flakes scattered on top are a dopaminergic highlight.
And then? Well, a pair of vermouths (one Spanish served neat, one Victorian on the rocks) sends us on our way. Graced with so many impressive drinks, it’s hard not to go through the whole dang list so we have to stop somewhere.
With sunny, outstanding service and a menu that highlights thoughtfully prepared seasonal produce, this is a heartfelt offering that North Melbourne locals are super fortunate to have on their doorstep.