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Taking its name as a nod to America's great waterways, Goodwater is rapidly becoming Northcote's worst-kept secret. Inspired by the mighty Ohio – a river integral to America's whiskey heritage – the connection here runs far deeper than just the moniker. From the framed Mississippi River maps by US Army Corps engineer Harold Fisk from 1944 that grace the exposed brick walls to the carefully curated selection of more than 250 American whiskeys flowing as freely as the rivers themselves, every detail reflects a profound sense of place and history. Welcome to Goodwater.
Perched right in the thick of the action on High Street, Goodwater has mastered what so many venues struggle with: being both a serious whiskey bar and genuinely welcoming space. The best seats in the house? Right up against the giant windows, which fling open on sunny days to let the good air in. Good air, good water – this is the spot to perch up and watch Northcote's evening parade while nursing a perfectly mixed Old Fashioned.
While the window seats might be prime real estate, the outdoor area offers its own backyard-ish charm. But really, there's no bad seat in the house – the warm, cosy atmosphere inside pervades every corner. The space strikes that perfect balance between classy and comfortable, with the impressive wall of whiskey bottles creating an amber-hued backdrop that feels more invitation than intimidation.
The bar is the brainchild of a veteran crew including Nathaniel White (Bar Margaux), Cara Devine (Bomba), Fred Siggins (Whisky and Alement), Kia Rasteh (Honey Barrel), April Hudson (The Keys), John Harlett (The Everleigh), Yao Wong (The Elysian Whiskey Bar) and others who clearly know their stuff but wear that knowledge lightly.
It shows in everything from the staff's genuine warmth to their encyclopedic knowledge of the extensive whiskey collection. Even during peak hours, every interaction feels unhurried and personal – they're as happy to guide a novice through their first bourbon as they are to geek out with seasoned whiskey enthusiasts.
The cocktail menu is a choose-your-own-adventure of sorts. Each drink can be ordered three ways: short and boozy, tall and refreshing or non-alcoholic – a thoughtful touch that ensures everyone at the table can enjoy the same flavours regardless of their preferences.
The Bad Water – the house take on a Vodka Cruiser, made with Gospel Solera, Dr Pepper and raspberry – is a fun shout. While the Kentucky Nitro Martini, their answer to the Espresso Martini, combines Four Roses bourbon, cold brew, cola and cherry, finished with a nitro element that adds a silky smooth texture. While it might not convert traditional Espresso Martini devotees (it didn't quite hit for me, but my dining partner loved it), it's a fun option in an expansive list of alternatives that shows this isn't just a place for whiskey nerds.
Beyond these signatures, the cocktail menu shines with creations that showcase the bar team's depth. The Side Bet pairs Flor de Cana seven-year rum with chestnut, pear and beeswax. While Island Time brings together Evan Williams bourbon, Cocchi Rosa, papaya, coconut and pandan in a tropical twist that doesn't lose sight of its Kentucky roots.
The classics are also given their due respect. The house Old Fashioned, built on Michter's bourbon with a dark sugar blend and aromatic bitters, is a proper tribute to the cornerstone of American cocktails. Meanwhile, the Champagne Old Fashioned, featuring Knob Creek 100-proof straight rye, cola and a 'secret sauce', proves they're not afraid to play with tradition. And if you're after any classic not listed on the menu? Just ask – the team's got you covered.
The food menu is built for drinking, and it delivers. The fries, seasoned with Old Bay and served with smoked oyster aioli, are dangerously good – seriously, the only thing that stopped us from ordering a second bowl the moment they were gone (they were demolished in about five minutes) was the fact we needed to save room. These guys know their chips. Do yourself a favour, order them.
The crispy fish sando is another standout – a nicely crumbed piece of barramundi seasoned with Old Bay, topped with remoulade and fresh watercress, all tucked into Wonder White bread. Oh, and make sure you leave room for the smoked pork ribwich; a glorious mess of a sandwich, perfectly calibrated for soaking up a few whiskeys. It's served on a potato bun with Memphis barbecue sauce and coleslaw, and yes, you'll need napkins. Lots of them.
One of the bar's most endearing quirks is their 'Postcard Pours' concept – if you discover a whiskey you love, they'll bottle up 50ml and mail it to an out-of-town friend. It's exactly the kind of thoughtful touch that sets Goodwater apart.
After a year in business, Goodwater feels like it's been part of Northcote forever. It's a bar that respects its spirits but isn't precious about them, that takes its food seriously but keeps it fun, and most importantly, that remembers hospitality is about making people feel welcome, not just serving them drinks. Their motto – "If we're open, so is the kitchen" – says everything about their approach to service.
Like the grand rivers it's inspired by, Goodwater has carved out its own path in Melbourne's busy bar scene. It's a place that celebrates American whiskey culture with style, substance and zero pretension. This is the American whiskey bar, Northcote style.