Despite Lygon Street’s popularity with tourists and locals alike, there are probably only four venues on the famous Carlton end of the strip that regularly garner a long queue outside: ice cream shop Pidapipo, rooftop bar Johnny’s Green Room, Universal Restaurant (probably for its monster cheap parmas) and finally, Good Measure.
The latter is an all-day coffee shop that transforms into a lively cocktail bar in the evenings, and it’s home to arguably the city’s most famous signature coffee order right now: the Mont Blanc. After going viral on social media roughly a year ago, the drink appears conspicuously at almost every table inside – a beautiful glass tumbler of filter coffee and black-sugar syrup, wearing a thick lid of fresh cream flecked with nutmeg and orange zest.
Is it worth the hype? 100 per cent. It was once reported that co-owner Max Allison goes through multiple 18-litre kegs of his filter coffee a week to keep up with the demand. So of course, it’s the first thing I order from the menu when I arrive on a chilly Sunday arvo, along with a cinnamon babka from the pastry counter. Having skipped brekky on account of a late-night party sesh on Chapel Street the night before – I think I took researching this piece a bit too seriously – I’m pining for a sanga, but the waiter informs me there are close to none left.
Out of the four fillings normally on offer, including the ramen egg salad which I really wanted to try, only the sweet potato is still available. Sadly, I’m just not a carb-on-carb gal. In Good Measure’s defence, however, it’s after 2pm (a good six hours since the kitchen opened) and the Mont Blanc and babka are ridiculously good on their own. That smooth, creamy iced coffee washes down the lightly cinnamon-spiced, fluffy babka bread like a perfect dream I don’t want to wake up from.
I'm also delighted to discover how charming and friendly the service is – after being seated, two glasses of sparkling water are brought to the table almost instantly, and every staff member on shift has a warm demeanour. Normally, at places as busy and popular as these, service is the first to drop in quality, but that’s not the case at Good Measure. It’s not a lucky fluke either, as when I return around 6pm to check out the bar in night mode, a new face serving us is just as genuine and personable.
The sanga menu switches come evening and I hope nothing’s run out. Only the chicken skins, my partner and I are told. We opt for a few cocktails to begin, and two of the sandwiches: a 24-hour ox cheek roll and a crispy chicken sando. Both are very delicious, but the ox cheek roll is the highlight. Sopped up in a rich onion gravy, with pickled chilli and provolone playing tasty sidekicks to the meaty star, this is a finger-licking yum snack I’d go back for alone.
The katsu sando on the other hand could do with a touch of sweetness to balance out the rich flavours and ranch sauce. Even just a light drizzle of tonkatsu sauce would lift all the ingredients perfectly. Our side of cheesy kimchi fries is undeniably addictive, if a little soggy. (Be warned if you like your crinkle fries crunchy and piping hot.) We also get a bowl of fried pickles with spiced yoghurt, which are a ten out of ten.
On the drinks front, Good Measure plays a very casual cocktail game but each drink hits the spot. I’ve opted for a fruity gooseberry Martini made from wheat vodka and the bar’s house gooseberry wine, and my partner loves his fresh pour of Bricks IPA. The yuzu Margarita is suitably tart, bright and invigorating, and I also try a glass each of syrah and dolcetto – two excellent red wines, served by the bar at optimal temps. There are a few seasonal cocktails on the menu I'd love to try (Chai Spiced Hot Apple Cider and Date Colada – I'm lookin' at chu both), but we leave it for now and saunter home satisfied.
Good Measure is arguably at its best as a well-oiled coffee shop during the day. Enticing you in with lots of green plants and a clean, wooden fitout, it's perfectly chic with the barista chops to back up its high rep. But as a cocktail bar, it’s a mighty fun and vibrant spot to drink in, letting its hair down after 5pm. Two DJs on vinyl strike the mood with soul and nostalgic '80s pop and the laid-back vibes are contagious. Better yet, you can indulge in coffee until 8pm – including the heavenly Mont Blanc. Have you tried it yet? If not, drop everything and run!
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.