Do you know the differences between a trattoria, an osteria, a ristorante and an enoteca? Most of us have heard Italian eateries being described using these very words, but how many of us know the exact translations? That's the sort of stuff you might hear top sommelier James Tait happily chatting away about with his guests at Enoteca Zingara, a humble new Fitzroy wine bar and bottle-o fresh from the Alta Trattoria crew.
Similar to its elegant big sister in the same neighbourhood, this venue treats guests to an experience that speaks to Italy's regional distinctions authentically. The point of difference, however, is that Enoteca Zingara doesn't zero in on the Piedmont region like Alta, preferring to cover the entire gamut of the boot-shaped nation in its food and drinks menu. And as its name suggests, Zingara (Italian for 'gypsy', an homage to the building's history) is an enoteca – not a restaurant.
While Alta may be more ideal for a refined, sit-down dinner, here you can embark on all sorts of culinary (and less pricey) endeavours: a casual aperitivo hour with a friend – drinks range from $6 to $12 and come with complimentary snacks; a spot of vino retail therapy for a takeaway bottle of something special; or a proper multi-course dinner with sommelier-paired wines. Highlights of the menu include crostini with braised chicken livers and pickled baby onions, panzerotti (pizza-flavoured pockets), the in-house baker and chef's perfect pizzette and rich, tomatoey polpette (meatballs) and pork ribs – a recipe from his partner's nonna.
The bar has even launched a $50 grazing menu, which includes six snacky eats, ciabatta bread with olive oil, and dessert. We know where we'll be for dinner this weekend.
For a brand new wine bar on Fitzroy's hip and happening Brunswick Street, it's surprisingly easy to miss Enoteca Zingara when you're sauntering down the strip. The space may have once housed popular (but now closed) watering holes like Rum Diary, and before that, Gypsy Bar, but it's easy to forget in Melbourne. Once something's gone, it's gone and we can easily miss what's since taken its place.
So you might have to look twice when someone points out: "Hey, there's the new bar from the Alta Trattoria guys!" But once the enoteca's unique olive green, red and gold logo draws you in and you find a cosy nook, you'll want to stay for a while. The fridges lining the wall contain a tempting collection of European wines, all of which you can enjoy by the glass or buy to take home with you.
And while you might not plan to stay for dinner, don't forget that everything this hospo team touches seems to turn to gold. After a single taste of even just the flawlessly executed bread here, it'll be hard not to want to explore the entire menu (we say this from personal experience).