Balwyn may not have the same culinary cache as some of its surrounding suburbs, but there are a few hidden jewels tucked around its leafy streets and relative newcomer Enoteca Boccaccio is one of the brightest.
It opened last year above Boccaccio Cellars, a 60-year-old bottle shop and Italian grocer run by the multigenerational D'Anna family. Ascending the stairs, constructed from pale pink marble that perhaps intentionally resembles mortadella, feels like you’re being let in on a secret – push open the door to reveal a sleek, buzzy venue you’d never know existed from ground level.
We’re greeted cordially and seated towards the back with a full view of the space. With concrete walls, marble benches and tile floors, it's cool but not austere. Thanks to the talents of Mim Design in bringing the D'Anna family's vision to life, the space has already won an interior design award within its first six months of opening. The fact that it's full on a Thursday night helps enliven the vibe. It also reinforces just how small the space actually is, but with coats collected and bag stools provided, the team are conscious of eliminating any potential discomforts.
There’s a wine fridge on entry that’s reflected in the extensive (and not inexpensive) selection. By the glass, there are premium pours served via Coravin and available in tiered serving sizes hovering around $30, plus a standard offering starting around $15. Staff are well-informed to guide you through, with in-depth tasting notes and suggestions tailored to your preference and budget.
They’ll also readily explain specials and what’s so special about them, like the fact that the Tasmanian flat oysters on offer for the evening are meatier and richer than the more common Pacific variety. They're a fitting segue into white polenta so fine it's almost textureless, topped with a tower of tender duck liver, caramelised onion and mustard fruit dressing. It’s a dish that could almost succumb to its layers of softness and richness, but offers enough acidity and texture to maintain variety and balance. Really lovely.
Housemade pasta has transitioned from a novelty to an expectation in Melbourne’s dining circuit, but a well-done variety will always rise up and the ones at Enoteca are a stellar example. The gently spicy rigatoni all’ amatriciana holds onto its sauce in a way that only fresh egg-based pasta will. With crisp, pan-fried guanciale that adds without overwhelming, it's what every amatriciana aspires to be.
The chestnut cappelletti was its polar opposite in every way, with what appeared to be a whole grain-spiked dough and a sweet, nutty flavour profile driven by burnt butter and apple. It was delicate but not overly so, and a subtle reminder that while Enoteca can do Italian classics well, they’re also well-versed in playing to the strengths of seasonal Victorian produce.
At around $36 each, the pastas are actually more affordable than the locale might suggest, and large enough that we bypass dessert. If you're so inclined, you’ll find seasonal rotations like pumpkin ice cream with miso caramel alongside more classic offerings like tiramisu and lemon tarts. Or if you’re not a sweet tooth, there's a fantastic formaggi menu curated by the house cheesemonger with selections sourced from Italy and throughout Victoria.
It’s a phrase that gets thrown around loosely but Enoteca truly offers something for everyone, whether you’re after a well-executed pasta or a few nice nibbles and a wine list you can trust. Blending style and substance in equal measure, it’s sure to become as beloved as the grocer that sits below it.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.