1. Drinks trolley at Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Kristoffer Paulsen
  2. FIlm projector and dimly lit tables at Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Arianna Leggiero
  3. Bartender mixing cocktails.
    Photograph: Arianna Leggiero
  4. Film projector at Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Arianna Leggiero
  5. Finger sandwiches at Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Kristoffer Paulsen
  6. Cocktail at Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Kristoffer Paulsen
  7. Curtain swept to reveal Bianchetto.
    Photograph: Arianna Leggiero
  • Bars | Cocktail bars
  • Kew
  • Recommended

Review

Bianchetto

5 out of 5 stars

Bianchetto brings an intimate slice of Italian nightlife to Kew, serving up masterful cocktails and Sicilian-inspired cuisine in a moody, Fellini-esque setting

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Time Out says

Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.

Kew, long known for its leafy streets and let's just say well-to-do residents, has been crying out for a proper cocktail bar. Chef Joseph Vargetto, the mastermind behind Mister Bianco, has finally answered that call with Bianchetto. It's moody, it’s intimate, and it feels like it was plucked from a Fellini film.

Stepping through the gold curtain that separates Bianchetto from its older sibling is like entering a different world. The room is dark. Very dark. So dark, in fact, that you might begin to ever so slightly panic that this will be one of those hold-your-phone-torch-to-the-menu situations. Thankfully, once seated, it becomes very clear that Bianchetto knows what it's doing. The lamps on each table are not only aesthetically pleasing without stealing the show, but the light they provide is perfect

The space is smaller than Mister Bianco, as is to be expected given Bianchetto literally translates to “little Bianco” in Italian. Olive-green walls, industrial-vibe ceilings and cozy leather booths clash tastefully. On one end of the room, classic Italian films from the 1960s are projected silently on the wall, providing a hypnotic backdrop that's equal parts nostalgia and cool. 

On Wednesday and Thursday nights, the films take centre stage as Bianchetto hosts movie nights featuring Italian classics or films inspired by the country. Expect gems like ‘It Started In Naples’ with Sophia Loren, ‘La Dolce Vita,’ or ‘The Italian Job.’ For $33.50, you'll get more than just a screening — the price includes food, a drink, and elevated movie snacks like truffled popcorn.

But let's talk about why we're really here: the drinks. The cocktail list is meticulously curated by award-winning bartender and founder of Drinks by Loro, Orlando Marzo. The result is a cocktail menu that reads like a short but punchy love letter to Italian spirits, with a cheeky modern twist.

Take the Pink Tart, for instance. It's a concoction of vodka, limoncello, lemon, vanilla, and prosecco, poured over raspberry sorbet. This arrives at your table in two separate vessels, allowing you to cosplay as cocktail master as you pour the mixture over the sorbet yourself. 

For those seeking something a little more brooding, the Dried and Smoked is a masterpiece. Blended Scotch and peated Scotch provide the backbone, while a sweet vermouth blend, Pedro Ximenez, and orange bitters add layers of complexity. Meanwhile, The East of Fiore is a floral dream, blending gin, elderflower, white vermouth, strega, chamomile, and lemon.

When it comes to food, Bianchetto isn't content with mere bar snacks. We're pleasantly surprised to learn that Mister Bianco and Bianchetto now share the one menu, meaning everything available at Mister Bianco is at your fingertips – marvellous news to anyone walking in with a grumbling belly (us).

We start with the oysters, dressed in a shallot red wine vinegar that perfectly balances the brine. The arancino alla norma is a crispy sphere of comfort, the smoked eggplant and ricotta salata elevating it from simple street food to something special.

The hot pork belly with red grapes, apples, and cider sauce is a showstopper. Crisp, shattering skin gives way to melt-in-your-mouth meat, while the sweet grapes and tender apples cut through the richness offering a delightful contrast in texture and flavour. It takes super-human levels of self-control not to order five more.

The double-baked goat's cheese soufflé is another that would go to the top of or 'would order again' list. Paired with a salad of pear and artichoke chips, it's light yet indulgent. And let's not forget the pumpkin casoncelli. These little parcels of felicità, bathed in burnt butter and sprinkled with amaretti and sage, are a perfect illustration of why Italian cuisine is so beloved – simple ingredients, perfectly balanced, creating something greater than the sum of its parts.

Service, as you'd expect from a Vargetto establishment, is smooth, attentive, and seamless. They're knowledgeable without being pompous, happy to guide you through the menu or let you explore on your own.

Bianchetto isn't trying to reinvent the wheel, but it's far from a nice restaurant's tacked-on side project. It knows what it is: a sleek, hot cocktail bar with upmarket Sicilian flair and a menu that doesn't disappoint. It's a little slice of Italian magic in the heart of Kew, and it's exactly what the neighbourhood needed. 

Hungry and thirsty for more beyond Sicily? Here's our guide to Melbourne's best Italian restaurants.

Details

Address
26-28 Cotham Rd
Kew
Melbourne
3101
Opening hours:
Wed-Thu 5:30pm-10:30pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-11:30pm
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