Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
Nothing is worse than a cocktail bar that leaves you feeling foolish. Or a bartender that makes you ashamed that you don't know what makes a martini wet or dry and insinuates your preference for sweet over smoky is distinctly "uncool". Thankfully, that's not Bar Clara.
It's Saturday evening, and despite being a few minutes before opening, a group of (punctual) revellers is already outside their Little Bourke Street location. You get the feeling that this is a fave 'round these parts. And so my stomach drops when the staff ask if I have a reservation. But I needn't worry; I'm sitting pretty at the stylish communal table in no time.
Dark lighting, plush velvet sofas, exposed pipes, and an impressive copper bar create relaxed and unpretentious surroundings—the perfect surroundings for enjoying a relaxed and unpretentious cocktail. A comfortable place with an evident speakeasy influence, it's a sweet find for this end of the CBD.
The cocktail list is brief and rotates seasonally, with a focus on fresh ingredients and innovative mixology techniques. Though the staff are more than happy to whip you up a classic, I'd suggest ordering from the bespoke menu, as that's where Bar Clara's essence lies.
Being mid-August, I'm grateful to see a couple of their cocktails are served hot, and I decide to wet my whistle (or warm my whistle) with the Nutritionally Delicious ($23). Comprising Blazed Plantation white rum, mandarin, and Ovaltine syrup with meringue foam, it's perfect for the cold weather and warms me right from the chest.
It's giving boozy Terry's Chocolate Orange energy — a real win in my books.
Another hot drink is the Mulled Wine ($16), which is ranked number one in Time Out's guide to Melbourne's best mulled wine. As usual, the Time Out team is correct: this mulled wine is spot-on. Made with red wine, spiced syrup, cacao nibs, cherries, and winter spices, it's fragrant, well-seasoned, and a perfect balance between spicy and sweet.
I tend to steer clear of milky cocktails, but I'm assured that the Banoffee Special ($23) is more akin to a sour. It consists of clarified fresh banana-infused bourbon, lemon, dark sugar, and banana skin oleo with caramelised meringue. When it arrives, I'm slightly perplexed by the mountain of toasty meringue and unsure how to drink it without getting a faceful of creamy egg whites.
Realising that a faceful of meringue is hardly a bad thing, I jump in and immediately reap the rewards of a fruity, well-balanced and not-too-sweet drink. Adding lemon is pure genius, and it champions the banana and brightens the drink, preventing it from slipping into "too much" territory.
Snacks are minimal, and there are only three hot items, but that's perfectly fine when those items are a Reuben ($19), mushroom toastie ($15) and baked brie ($18).
The Reuben is helpfully cut into three pieces and comes with a generous serving of salty crinkle-cut chips. It's more restrained in its configuration than a Katz monstrosity (non-pejorative)—with sauerkraut and pickles making up the bulk and Swiss cheese and a few slices of pastrami bringing up the rear. The bread is un-fussy and underappreciated white, which I would argue is the backbone of any good toasted sandwich. It's buttery and sour and won't leave you needing to make a cardiologist appointment. If your palette is more acidic-leaning, like mine, the ratio is perfect.
The baked brie is obviously delicious; how could it not be? Rich brie with a generous dollop of cranberry sauce to cut through. My only criticism is that the brie could have been cooked for a little longer as it begins congealing almost as soon as it hits the table. But, when I scoop it up with my leftover crinkle-cut chips, I'm hardly complaining.
Teetotallers are well looked after, too. There's a good selection of Fever Tree drinks ($5) and a mocktail option ($12) where bartenders are only too happy to custom-create a non-boozy drink so you don't miss out on the fun.
Bar Clara is a cocktail bar for the everyman. In a city where we often take ourselves a little too seriously, this place understands that to be delicious, cocktails don't have to also be an esoteric opportunity to prove your palette's worth. From food to drink to design, it's thoughtful, modern and easy to enjoy.
So you can enjoy your Martini, wet or dry, or sit at a communal table with a faceful of egg white without shame.