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It normally takes a lot for me to cross the river (yep, typical northsider I can hear you all saying), but if there’s one thing I can’t resist it’s the siren song of a slick and sexy wine bar. So it’s on a near 40-degree day that my partner and I find ourselves on High Street in Armadale, in desperate need of a cold drink and something to eat.
Auterra provides our sweet escape from the heat, and we slip into a table backed against the two-tone exposed brick wall. Located on a shopping strip chock-full of fancy designer boutiques, this unassuming (from the outside, at least) and unpretentious spot is the brainchild of chef-owner Clinton McIver, making it the little sibling of his highly regarded fine diner Amaru.
But while Amaru encourages you to go on an extravagant dining odyssey across multiple courses, Auterra is the chilled-out and charming companion – ideal for arvo wines, a cute date or long, lazy Sunday lunches.
Speaking of arvo wines, in the midst of umming and ahhing over a Tassie riesling or rosé from the Barossa, our waiter points to a note on the wine list about off-menu bottles on pour and suggests the day’s chosen tipple: Blind Corner’s ‘Orange *in Colour’ – a natty wine that can only be described as pure sunshine in a glass. Vibrant in colour, brimming with character and seriously smashable, I quickly snap a pic of the label to guarantee a future purchase.
While I’m busy swooning over the aforementioned juicy drop, an Apple Spritz (green apple syrup, dry vermouth, sparkling wine) lands in front of my partner. Crisp, refreshing and with a hint of zest from the lemon garnish, it’s clear we’ve hit the jackpot for thirst-quenching bevvies.
It would be rude not to kick-start the snacks with some oysters, so we opt for four plump and salty boys (from Camden Haven on the Mid North Coast of NSW) topped with a healthy slosh of Tabasco for that extra punch of heat. Heaven! They’re quickly followed by the marron toast with mushroom XO and a bright yellow fermented capsicum sauce (a modern take on the classic dim sum dish). The marron is sweet and succulent, and the flavours are expertly balanced by the earthy, umami-like profile of the mushies. Served warm, it’s a moreish bite.
The roll call of small plates continue: the aged pork and comté croquettes finished with sauce gribiche are *chef’s kiss* – the fried, crispy outer layer giving way to the meaty filling with a satisfying crunch. And the MS9+ Wagyu beef tartare with anchovy, turnips and gherkins is a party on my palate. We ladle it up with leaves of witlof lettuce (a hardy vessel that doesn’t sag under the weight of a hefty scoop), which provide a sharp bitterness that cuts right through the richness of the Wagyu.
But my favourite menu item would have to be the duck liver parfait on a buttermilk crumpet with mountain pepper honey. It’s lavish and indulgent in the naughtiest way possible, and also totally gorgeous to look at. The springy crumpet base is laden with swirls of sweet, creamy duck liver mousse (its colour a soft, muted blush tone that just so happens to perfectly match Auterra’s palette of pale pinks, deep burgundy and copper) and thin ribbons of smoked duck ham. I’ll take ten more, thanks.
By this stage we’ve moved onto some new vinos: an ice-cold Colle Marianna soave for me (another top-notch suggestion from the staff that is ever-so-slightly sweet but lip-smackingly good) and a chilled gamay by Koerner Wines in the Adelaide Hills for my partner. They are both easily quaffable drops, and it’s important to note we’ve only just scratched the surface when it comes to the wine list – there are pages of bottles, ranging from accessible to super spenny, that I’d love to dive into.
As ‘Round Round’ by the Sugababes comes on in the background (I’d like to hold space for Auterra’s playlist, which is full of eclectic and funky tunes), I realise I’m kinda jealous this place isn’t my local. With a culinary offering that shines a light on local, seasonal produce, interesting wines and an ever-changing Sunday set menu that demands constant revisits, it’s a real boon for lucky southsiders. Guess I’ll just have to make that trek across the Yarra again – and soon.