There's an art to inheriting a beloved space. When Ferdydurke closed its doors in April 2024 after 12 years of deliberate grit and good times, the question wasn't just what would replace it, but how. Aster, the latest venture from Office of Public Works (the crew behind Section 8), answers with quiet confidence.
The balcony alone is worth the visit. In fact, it's a bit of an enigma — it's seemingly never packed and there's always a spot, which is perplexing as it overlooks such a beautiful slice of Melbourne's inner city. The electricity and vibe of Section 8 below, the ever changing passerby circus of Tattersalls Lane, the sheer magic of having a front row seat to pure Melbourne. It's truly a wonderful spot to perch up and have your drink of choice and a cigarette or cigar if you're so inclined. Seriously, how this balcony isn't constantly packed to the brim is a mystery to me. It might be Melbourne's best kept secret.
But this isn't a balcony review blog (though if I had my way, it would be), so let us continue further up the stairs, where the magic carries inside; where the heritage building has been thoughtfully refreshed while preserving its character. The ghost of Ferdydurke would be proud of what stands today.
The lighting here is exceptional, and that's coming from a true lighting snob. During daylight hours, sunlight filters through skylights and windows, creating natural warmth without harsh exposure. As evening settles, the space transforms into something more intimate – dark enough to feel cosy, bright enough to appreciate what's in your glass.
The cocktail program balances classics with creative flourishes, all hovering around the $24 to $28 mark. The Martini comes three ways (with a seemingly handwritten scribble on the menu asking if you like it wet, dry, or dirty). The Old Mate combines Gospel Solera rye whiskey with Autonomy Davo plum aperitivo and Maidenii dry vermouth (with an orange twist), while East Meets South features Beefeater gin, green chartreuse, lime and yuzu, basil, comet grapefruit, and quandong syrup.
For something different, try Brogan's Breakfast Milk Punch, a fun blend of Brogan's Way Strawberries & Cream gin, Amaro Montenegro, mixed berry jam, plum dust and Greek yoghurt. And don't leave without trying the Japanese Skipper, their standout signature, which melds Jimmy Rum Silver with Stache House melon liqueur, Marionette orange curaçao, pandan, lime and lemonade. It's sublime.
Now, about the food. If you're expecting dinner, adjust those expectations (in fact, if you're even slightly hungry, go elsewhere). The menu is deliberately minimal – basically like cheese and crackers you'd pull out for a wine with a friend at home, but elevated to cool Melbourne bar level. Essentially, the food here is for grazing while conversing; it's not going to fill you up, unless you order a lot of it (which will send you broke as the portions are small for the price).
That's not to say the food on offer isn't good – it is. The saison black truffle and squid ink salami is truly exceptional, though you are paying $18 for a few thin slices. It's the kind of thing you'd happily eat daily if your wallet would allow it. But again, you're not coming here for dinner, the menu is designed to complement rather than compete with what's in your glass.
Other small plates include olives with lemon and fennel ($8.50) and house pickled vegetables ($9), while the dip selection offers either a shiitake mushroom and lentil parfait or whipped smoked trout with trout roe ($14.50 each), both served with cornichons and lavash. Don't skip the fire-roasted peppers, which come with smoked tomato dressing and goat's cheese ($14) — honestly if you can stop yourself from devouring them all in less than a few minutes you have better self control than I.
Rounding out the small menu is the duck, pancetta and pistachio terrine with pickled onions ($19.50), which offers something slightly more substantial. The cheese of the day ($19) arrives with quince and crackers.
Okay, enough about the snacks. Let's talk service. In short, it's wonderful, striking that perfect balance — present when needed, invisible when not. The staff is kind and without pretension, their attention sharp without hovering. They've cultivated an atmosphere where both regulars and first-timers feel equally at home.
The heritage elements — exposed brick, timber beams, that beautiful original fireplace — provide more than just aesthetic value. They root the space in its history while allowing it to evolve. The iconic dance floor may be gone, but movement isn't discouraged when the music hits right, especially when the DJ arrives (they rotate regularly) and the music builds organically with the evening, adding energy without overwhelming conversation.
Yes, spending time here can be an investment — especially if your stomach begins to rumble. But Aster knows exactly what it is: a sophisticated but unpretentious spot for quality drinks in an atmosphere that makes you want to linger. This is the kind of place you bring someone who's visiting from out of town, or that date you want to impress. And yet, it serves just as well as a relaxing escape for a quick drink after work.
Aster just works. It's managed to create something that's both special and accessible, refined but relaxed. The kind of place that elevates an ordinary evening without trying too hard to be extraordinary.
The city changes, bars come and go, but sometimes a space finds its next perfect iteration. Aster isn't trying to replicate or compete with what came before — it's writing its own story, and doing it rather well.