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It’s hard to imagine a Melbourne where Apollo Inn doesn’t exist, such is the impact this handsome and swanky spot has had on the city’s bar scene in its short lifespan so far. Andrew McConnell’s first standalone cocktail bar – which swung open its leatherbound doors in June 2023 – has seamlessly settled into its location at McDonald House on Flinders Lane, maintaining a strong and steady stream of visitors nightly, all hoping to squeeze into one of just 30 highly coveted seats.
I’m reminded of its magic when I pop in on a Thursday evening with a friend from Sydney in tow. I’ve walked through the enormous doors, into the cosy waiting corridor and through the plush velvet curtains to the main bar a few times now, but there is still something special about sauntering in for the very first time – as evidenced by my pal’s “oohs” and “ahhs” as she films our grand entrance.
We snag the last two perches at the bar – in my opinion, there’s no better spot to sit at Apollo Inn than here – and let the cosy cocoon of warmth, chatter and the occasional clinking of glasses wash over us. The space is intimate and dimly lit, with gorgeous Art Deco details, teeny tabletop lamps and a splash of graffiti from Hosier Lane peeking in through the sheer curtains. “It’s just so Melbourne,” says my friend, and I can’t help but feel a little smug.
It’s been one of those days, so cocktails are in order. I opt for the Blossom (Charles Reuben Australian pisco, spring rhubarb, Muyu jasmine, fresh chamomile and passionfruit marigold) and it’s everything I love in a drink: fruity, fresh flavours with a gorgeous floral aroma. In order to stop myself from guzzling it in one go, I take a moment to admire the glistening rock-shaped ice block that looks like it’s been carved straight off an iceberg.
As is the way when the girlies get together, it’s time to swap drinks (IYKYK) and I steal a sip of the Morning Glory Fizz (Johnny Walker Green Label whisky, Kagoshima sencha, Forêt Pastis and lemon curd). It’s bright and zesty, the lemon curd singing with tartness – and the fizziness makes it feel like a party in a glass. These seasonal cocktails go a long way in showcasing the depth of talent among the bar crew, who must have so much fun whipping up such delightful concoctions.
The one-page snack menu may be concise, but every bite has earned its place. We start off on a high with the prawn club sandwich (side note: are prawn sangas having a moment? The prawn tramezzini at Bar Olo is also a banger). Heaped between slices of soft white bread – shaped like a circle! With the crusts cut off! – are layers of poached prawns, iceberg lettuce, smoked bacon, pickled green tomatoes and creamy aioli. It’s crunchy, chunky and a tad sloppy in the best way possible. The balance of textures is also perfect.
The carb loading continues with the mozzarella and hot honey toasted sandwich. In our haste we forgot to ask for added sobrassada (which I had enjoyed in an early Apollo Inn dish of a toasted baguette topped with tuna tartare), but it’s not missed here. This is a rich, gooey and utterly swoon-worthy dish, every bite elevated to zingy new heights when we dip the cheesy bread into the pot of hot honey. Yum.
We finish with a Gibson Martini each and a serving of the Abrolhos Island raw scallops with cucumber and green chilli (is it a backwards note to end on? Perhaps, but it feels right after the lavish sandwich courses). The glasses are so icy and frosted we don’t even spot the pickled onion at the bottom of the glass until we’ve drunk half of it, when the cucumber brine gives way for a sharper, more cutting flavour.
Served atop two fan-shaped shells sitting on a bed of ice, the scallops are chilled and doused in a vibrant piquant sauce that delivers a punchy kick. The dish doesn’t evoke the same giddiness as our earlier snacks, but it’s a pleasant note to finish on nonetheless.
What ties this whole experience together though, is the service. From the moment we enter the snug waiting hall we’re welcomed with casual banter and relaxed questioning – so much so that my friend even asks, “Is this normal?” I tell her it is, and it rings true for everyone we encounter across the evening. Whether it’s advice, a hot tip or just a lovely explanation of the food, every touch point we have with someone is charming and speaks to the kind camaraderie between the team.
In August 2023, Lauren Dinse, our food and drink writer, wrote: “It’s not surprising at all that this place is packed to the rafters, but will it stand the test of time post-debut glow? Our vote’s in the affirmative.” Well, it’s safe to say we can wholeheartedly confirm that Apollo Inn remains one of Melbourne’s chicest drinking dens, and it’s still jam-packed with people who must also agree. We hope that never changes.