1. La plage de Maldormé
Best for: fresh fish and proper beaching
Found in the Malmousque neighbourhood, you have to leave Kennedy Corniche via a steep path to find this pebble beach located in the Maldormé cove, just a short swim from Gérald Passedat’s Petit Nice. Accessible by a flight of stairs and sheltered from the wind, this is a charming but small beach that gets crowded in summer. Overlooked by the famous yellow house (every local you’ll meet has an opinion on its potential owners), this cove attracts both old and young fans of cool water swimming – the beach is in the shade in the afternoon. To complete the experience, eat at Poissonnerie Kennedy, opened by Georges Mohammed-Chérif, offering a takeaway platter of shellfish and seafood, including pearly langoustines, red prawns, fine de claire oysters and whelks. If you’re more of a pizza person, make a stop at L’Eau à la Bouche, a true Marseille institution.