The 14 best restaurants in Marseille

It’s hard not to fall head over heels for A Moro, a charming little spot on Rue Venture. The setting might be unassuming – speckled floor, long zinc bar, white walls, knick-knacks from another era and a small terrace that spills onto the street at the first hint of sunshine – but there’s an inexplicable comfort here, like being wrapped up in an actual tiramisu. On the evening menu, you’ll find expertly crafted small plates: a thimble-sized vitello tonnato; broccoli with ‘nduja and crunchy pangrattato; and tender braised beef cheek with creamy polenta and cabbage. 

It’s impossible not to spot this powder-pink wine bar, which is lively and buzzing with drinkers as soon as the sun comes out. Founded by Christophe Juville – who also runs Ippon, the Spok canteens, and Lolo in Paris – along with Ferdinand Fravega and Rémi Hernandez, Figure has truly transformed Vauban with its small plates that far exceed the neighbourhood’s usual standards. To share? How about their devilish tarama with green oil; bold combinations like gorgonzola with grilled almond condiments, apricots, and onions; perfectly crispy pommes dauphine topped with onion ketchup and herb mayo; or a superb bowl of mussels spiced with smoked paprika, spinata, and spinach. 

Starting at 8.30am, the duo behind this cosy café on the charming Rue Fontange – Axelle Poittevin and Thomas Benayoun – are busy pulling espresso shots (Brazilian or Guatemalan from Ben Mouture coffee shop) with the precision of a firing squad, straight from a well-travelled La Marzocco machine. Out on Razzia’s terrace, it’s like watching a live episode of France 3 Régions, with the eclectic mix of hipsters and old-school locals from La Plaine in this rapidly gentrifying street. If the morning has you wanting to cruise through life with an almond cookie, lunchtime brings the real flavour with competition-worthy sandwiches, made with buns freshly snagged daily from the nearby bakery, Pain Pan!. Among the standout options is the unforgettable ‘bœufato tonnato’ sandwich, featuring grilled beef spider steak, preserved lemon, sumac, pomegranate, confit and roasted red onions, tonnato parmesan sauce, grilled romaine, capers, and radicchio flambéed with guanciale.

At Prémices, a two-story spot just a short stroll from the port, you’ll find 60s-style lighting, thickly-cushioned banquettes and a delightful tiled bar. For lunch? Two starters, three mains, and two desserts to choose from, always with a veggie option to keep your carbon footprint in check. When we went, we tried bull tartare on tangy labneh, streaked with a zesty tamarind-prune condiment, a delicately steamed skate wing dotted with kimchi-infused beurre blanc and spelt and BBQ-seared Brussels sprouts, all under the blazing sun on the spacious terrace.

Unless you’re willing to get up at the crack of dawn to jostle with the crowds at the Vieux-Port on a Saturday morning, finding decent fish in Marseille without paying through the gills isn’t easy. But Poissonnerie Kennedy changed the game. On the ground floor by the pavement, you’ll find a counter covered in ice, showcasing gleaming sea bream, Galician sea urchins, and bouquets of pink shrimp ready to be taken away before heading to the rocks – still one of the city’s best spots for a romantic rendezvous.

After several months of rotating guest chefs, Loïck Tonnoir secured a permanent position here to deliver refined French bistro cuisine, where classic dishes are always given a twist with a distinctive condiment or a masterfully prepared sauce. On the sun-soaked terrace, whether you’re leaning on the micro-counter for a chat with the chef or seated with friends in the alcove designed by Axel Chay, Ippon’s lunch menu is short and sweet, and in the evening, it’s all about sharing: BBQ clams with chili and beef fat, Roman-style pork croquettes, skate wing with lentils in yellow wine, and matured rib-eye steak with buttermilk. Real brilliance. 

After crafting pizzas in Toulon, Marie-Laure Oddone and Damien Hirel headed west to dive into the world of smash burgers.  Pioneers of this style in Marseille, the duo revamped a spot in the city centre with all the trendy touches (dimmed neon lights and polished concrete, to name a few) to serve up burgers that are seriously worth sinking your teeth into, whether you’re dining inside or on the terrace. Ordering from a machine like at McDonald’s, you’ll find Howard’s classic burgers (starting at €11.50) made with house-made potato buns, Camargue Angus patties, and homemade sauces. Our favourite? The Smoky Joe, which combines smoked bacon, Texan sauce, pickled gherkins and confit onions.

On a quiet street in the far north of Le Panier, revelers and wine enthusiasts toast in harmony at this lively spot run by Quentin Panabières (former sommelier at Ötap in Brussels), Simon Erouart (formerly of Ivresse in Marseille), and Alix Eliard (from Auberge de Chassignolles in Arles). This cheerful group of friends found a long room with lined-up tables, polished concrete floors and Formica furniture and started serving up well-crafted small plates budget-friendly prices – and they’re for sharing, even if some dishes are almost thimble-sized. When we visited Ripaille, the chalkboard menu featured devilishly good prawns flambéed in pastis, a sea bass tartare enhanced with crushed hazelnuts, braised leek segments wrapped in a clear beurre blanc, and impressive lamb meatballs served with polenta.

From the moment Regain opened at 53 Rue Saint-Pierre, a somewhat rough-around-the-edges slope in the 5th district, Marseille’s culinary scene suddenly hit a high note. In a small room with dark green walls, bistro chairs and a long zinc bar with an open kitchen, the duo of Sarah Chougnet-Strudel and Lucien Salomon serve up dishes for lunch and dinner that are dangerous to try and replicate at home, as each plate dares to combine flavours like a team of perfect outlaws. Think tender cauliflower with sunflower tahini, salsa macha, and fresh herbs; an intriguing beef tartare with Pink Lady apples, sesame, kohlrabi, and confit egg yolk; and superb line-caught meagre with leek, sautéed chard and sorrel cream. 

It’s hard to grasp Marseille in just a few bites and a drink, but if the city had to be summed up by a single bar, it would be the one at 41 Rue d’Endoume, where old-timers and night owls take turns from morning till night. On La Relève’s packed-out terrace, you sit down for lunch without even glancing at the chalkboard, where each day a simple, classic three-course menu is written in white chalk; things like pristine brandade, family-style aïoli, and a fantastic seafood pasta.