The Marseille-born author of ‘Taste the World in Marseille’ shares her favourite pizza spots in the city – and what makes pizza the city’s real signature dish
Without doubt, pizza, or ‘pitze’ as we say here, is the most typical Marseillais dish. It’s our common denominator. Many of us have only eaten bouillabaisse once or twice in our lives, but each Marseillais has their own history with pizza, and there’s nothing better than eating it on the rocks in front of the sea. As a kid, I would willingly burn my tongue on slices dripping with mozzarella in our local pizza meccas.
In 1962, Jean Méritan invented the pizza truck based on the frites shacks in northern France. True gathering places for locals, these trucks still play an indispensable role in the social life of each neighbourhood, and even more so on Sunday evening. Everyone has their regular pizza truck to whom they remain incredibly loyal. But there's plenty of pizza on offer in this city, truck or not. Here is the best pizza in Marseille.
This guide is an excerpt from ‘Taste the World in Marseille: Marseille Cuisine by the Marseillais’ by author and photographer Vérane Frédiani. The English version, translated by Alexis Steinman, was published in November 2023.
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This place surprised me the most. L’Eau à La Bouche’s thin pizza won’t please everyone, but its lovers are numerous. It’s worth the detour on the Corniche, even with the haphazard parking, to eat one on the Malmousque beach boulders as the mistral blows and the sun sets.
You simply need to hit up this cult restaurant in Le Panier where the moit-moit (half anchovy, half cheese) arrives at your table before you've even ordered it. The pizza is as Marseille as it gets – wood-fired, garlicky sauce, oozy cheese. Follow the lead of the table beside you and order a pizza to share as a starter. It’s how it's done in Marseille. Then, follow it up with garlicky squid, wood-fired meats or aubergine parmigiana. And yes, you need to finish your plate!
Where the Parisians go. If you’re on your way down from La Bonne Mère basilica, up in Vauban, stop at La Bonne Mère for a pizza made with top ingredients, but no need to exhaust your heart and your friends to climb the hill just for it.
La Vielle Pelle is a historic address between Le Panier and the Vieux-Port. The mozzarella melts in your mouth as it should, as does the house gnocchi that I highly recommend for your main course. Share a pizza as a starter: it’s how it's done in Marseille.
Found at the end of Boulevard Baille, near Castellane, this pizza truck is friendly, well placed, and serves good pizzas. It belongs to the pizzeria across the street, La Cantine de Jeanine.
Pizza Nostra is for curious ones. Explore the back country between the Rue Fontange and Rue de Lodi, stumble across this pizzaiolo – alone in front of his wood-fired oven, and take away a great margherita that doesn’t impose 5cm crusts on you, all for less than 10 euros. I ate mine in front of the new Parisian transplant Tripletta to show my local pride.
The pizzaiola has a strong personality. Di Venezia’s main room is full of loud-talking regulars (scriptwriter friends, this is the place to go to take notes), and the authentic pizza oven dates back to when the address was a bakery, a very long time ago. Just the combo you want in a pizzeria.
Notre Dame du Mont, between Rue de Lodi and Cours Julien, has become a great spot for meeting up with hungry friends. As far as pizza goes, La Bella Pizza does the job, with its laid-back atmosphere, enthusiastic team, and a young boss whose Sicilian great-great-grandmother opened one of the first ever pizzerias in Marseille in 1924. A menu of classics and originals that aren't nonsensical neo-pizzas.
Found opposite another pizza entry on the list, La Vielle Pelle, this new pizzeria is serious about great ingredients. Try the Romana with anchois de cetera, capres and mozzarella.
All the chefs talk about this pizzeria. It belongs to the owners of the trendy bar Parpaing Qui Flotte, just down the street. This pizzeria, Bambino, is part of the Chave district’s booming food scene and adds conviviality to Boulevard Eugène-Pierre.
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