Places to sleep are rarely as tempting as the seventeenth-century former palazzo that houses The Xara Palace hotel in Malta’s Mdina. The tiny fortified hilltop town (current population: less than 300) is the island’s former medieval capital and towers above its surroundings, allowing for fantastic views over the countryside towards the current capital of Valletta and out to sea. Once the home of medieval knights, Mdina is more recently famous for welcoming TV and movie productions including Game of Thrones. It’s an enchanting place to lose oneself among its warren of narrow passages and sandstone buildings, especially at night, when all the tourists have disappeared and you’re very likely to have the run of the town pretty much all to yourself.
The Xara Palace is affiliated with the prestigious Relais & Chateaux network and it retains the essence of Mdina’s historic charm. It’s now run by Justin and Nicola, the adult children of the same owners who lovingly restored the building in the 1990s and opened it as a hotel in 1999. You can feel the personal touch throughout, not least through the enticing local artwork and antiques which are scattered throughout the building and the rooms. We were lucky enough to stay in the wonderful Presidential Suite, the finest example of the hotel’s several duplex rooms and suites, and with an unbeatable view out onto the courtyard leading to the hotel entrance. There are various suites on offer, two of them with a terrace and a hot tub, and there are various views to choose from too.
There’s no corner of this hotel which doesn’t set the imagination going
The hotel’s excellent top-floor terraced restaurant, De Mondion, deservedly has a Michelin star; it offers just the right balance between theatrical dining and informality, with a memorable selection of local dishes, with suckling pig and a trio of prawn, calamari and tuna especially memorable. The hotel also has a more casual trattoria, with a terrace on the beautiful courtyard in front of the hotel, and if you’ve time and money, it’s well worth venturing to Rosami on Belluta Bay, which is one of the owners’ other restaurants and is just as impressive and special as De Mondion, if slightly more playful. Architecturally, The Xara Palace will pique your curiosity throughout your stay. There’s no corner of this hotel which doesn’t set the imagination going, especially for anyone fascinated by history and the buildings the past has gifted us.
Neighbourhood
Mdina is so small it counts as an entire neighbourhood. The trick is just to wander about without worrying where you’re going as you won’t ever get lost for long. You can visit St Paul’s Cathedral (although it was closed for a Christening when we tried), and there are various other attractions close by (see below). It’s easy to imagine Mdina as a working fortress, designed for battle, with its streets designed to avoid being ambushed by arrows. A nightime wander is especially recommended.
Nearby
The Domus Romana just the other side of Mdina’s walls is a great small museum built around an excavated Roman villa, complete with terrific mosaics.
The Benedictine convent St Peter’s Monastery near Mdina’s main gate was closed to the public until 2023 and now offers a rare glimpse into a hidden world.
The Medina restaurant is owned by the same people as the Xara Palace and offers excellent affordable options including a great octopus dish.
Time Out Tip
Take a bus or taxi (about 30 minutes, depending on the traffic) into Valletta for a wander around the capital and don’t miss the Caravaggio paintings in St John’s Cathedral.