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El Retiro Park: Madrid’s Green Oasis Full of History and Life
This 118-hectare park dates back to the time of the Catholic Monarchs, who ordered the construction of the Monastery of the Hieronymites (today only the Church of San Jerónimo el Real and a Baroque-style cloister remain). Beside the monastery, King Philip II established a royal retreat and religious sanctuary—hence the name El Retiro (“The Retreat”). But it wasn’t until the reign of Charles III that the people of Madrid were allowed to enter the park, which by then was fenced off. Access was permitted only if visitors followed certain hygiene and dress codes.
Today, El Retiro is one of the most popular green spaces in Madrid, perfect for jogging, rowing, picnicking, walking your dog, or just enjoying the outdoors. It’s also home to several historic monuments worth visiting, such as:
- The Monument to Alfonso XII, a grand colonnade designed by José Grases Riera that overlooks the lake.
- The Casón del Buen Retiro, once a magnificent ballroom, now part of the Prado Museum.
- The Crystal Palace, built in 1887 for the Philippine Islands Exhibition.
The park is also filled with hidden gems—beautiful gardens, fountains, sculptures, the lovely Rose Garden, the Casa de Vacas, and most famously, The Fallen Angel statue, one of the few monuments in the world dedicated to Lucifer.
Activities in El Retiro
Thanks to its size and car-free layout, the park is a fantastic setting for all kinds of events. Some are official—like the famous Madrid Book Fair or its puppet theater—while others are informal, like group exercise meetups organized by locals.
Must-See Spots in El Retiro
- Crystal Palace: One of the park’s most iconic structures, made of glass and wrought iron. It was built for a flora exhibition in 1887 and now hosts temporary art exhibitions by the Reina Sofía Museum. Its ceramic details were made by Madrid artist Daniel Zuloaga. The palace is surrounded by horse chestnut trees and sits beside a small artificial lake.
- The Retiro Lake (Estanque del Buen Retiro): This artificial lake was created in the 17th century under Philip IV. Since the 19th century, it’s been managed by Madrid’s city council. Covering over 37,000 square meters, it's popular for boat rides, rowing competitions, and canoeing. Nearby you’ll find the monument to Alfonso XII and the Egyptian Fountain, built by architect Isidoro González Velázquez between 1819 and 1850.
- The Rose Garden (La Rosaleda): Designed by gardener Cecilio Rodríguez in 1915, this garden is part of the Landscape of Light, a 200-hectare area that was declared Madrid’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located just off the Paseo de Coches, the best time to visit is between May and June when the roses are in full bloom.
- Historic Park Gates: El Retiro has 17 entrances, many of them grand and historic. Some highlights include:
- Puerta de Felipe IV (1680)
- Puerta de la Independencia (1817)
- Puerta de España (1893)
- Puerta de Madrid (1900)
- Puerta de Hernani (1943), near Cecilio Rodríguez Gardens
These gardens are filled with fountains, pergolas, ponds, and statues—and they’re home to elegant peacocks, which roam freely to the delight of visitors.
A Bit of History
El Retiro Park was originally built around the Palacio del Buen Retiro, the secondary residence of Philip IV. Designed by architect Alonso Carbonel in the 1630s, the palace was badly damaged during the War of Independence and later demolished by order of the provisional government in 1868. Without that palace, this park wouldn’t exist today.
Guided Tours
With so much to see, a guided tour is a great way to discover the park’s hidden secrets, art, and history.
How Long Does It Take to Visit El Retiro?
You can explore the park in 2 to 3 hours, but we recommend visiting more than once. With 118 hectares of greenery, there’s always something new to discover—artworks seen from a different angle, seasonal changes, or simply a new path you haven’t walked before.
Maps
It’s easy to get turned around in such a large park. The Madrid City Council provides maps online showing all entrances, paths, and different areas. It’s worth downloading one before your visit.
Boat Rentals at the Lake
Renting a rowboat is a classic El Retiro activity, whether you want to paddle or just soak up the sun:
- Weekdays: €6 for 45 minutes
- Weekends/holidays: €8 for 45 minutes
- Solar-powered boat ride: €2
Tickets can be reserved through the Madrid Móvil app or the Deportes Web Madrid website.
Park Hours
- October to March: 6:00 AM to 10:00 PM
- April to September: 6:00 AM to midnight
Location & How to Get There
While there are multiple entrances, the most common reference address is Plaza de la Independencia, 7, near the Puerta de Alcalá.
Metro:
- Line 2: Retiro station
- Line 9: Ibiza station
- Line 1: Atocha Renfe station
Bus:
Lines 1, 2, 19, 20, 27, 28, 52, 74, and E1 all stop nearby.
This review was fact-checked and updated in 2025.