Burgos
Head almost due north out of Madrid on the high-speed train and in around 2.5 hours you reach the gorgeous city of Burgos, best known for its centuries-old Gothic cathedral. Although remains have been found there from Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Age settlements, among others, it was in the Middle Ages that Burgos really gained in prominence. In 2014, UNESCO declared its historical centre a World Heritage Site; wander through streets and squares unchanged for generations and discover the Real Monasterio de las Huelgas, walk under the Arch of Santa Maria (which also contains a Pharmacy Museum) and marvel at the Plaza Mayor. When you get peckish, there are numerous local specialities to sample: 'morcilla' blood sausage, 'lechazo' (suckling lamb), Castilian soup, and the dish with possibly the most off-putting name ever, 'olla podrida' or, literally, 'putrid pot'. 'Olla podrida' is actually a delicious, hearty stew with beans, morcilla, chorizo and bacon but the name is an unfortunate derivation of 'olla poderida', 'pot of the powerful'!
EAT: For fresh, seasonal, local dishes head to the elegant La Fábrica restaurant, which creates modern recipes built on the foundations of traditional flavours. Burgos-born chef Ricardo Temiño is in charge of the kitchen.
DRINK: Huge bowls of olives on sticks stand proudly on the bar; the city’s anthem is printed on the napkins ready for locals to break out in song at 10pm each day; and an LED sign keeps track of how many vermouths have been served to date… Drop into Vermuteria Victoria for a cocktail, signature vermouth or a glass of Ribera del Duero wine, produced in the southern part of Burgos province.
DO: Just 15km from the centre of town, the Sierra de Atapuerca archaeological site is one of the most significant of its kind in Spain; it’s where the oldest human remains in the Iberian Peninsula have been discovered – some are 1.2 million years old. If you don’t have time to make it out there, check out the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos itself, which includes finds from Atapuerca among its exhibits.
STAY: Although the NH Collection Palacio de Burgos is part of a hotel chain, its location in a UNESCO-protected 16th- and 17th-century Gothic building and cloister close to both the River Arlanzón and the city centre lets you experience local history first-hand and in four-star luxury. Other features include a late Sunday check-out option plus free WiFi, gym and sauna.
If you do just one thing... Dating from the 13th century and inspired by the great temples of Paris and Reims, the expansive Burgos cathedral is undoubtedly the city's leading attraction nowadays. The incredible Gothic spires dominate the local skyline while the art and architecture throughout are elaborate, fascinating and worthy of a good chunk of your time in the city: highlights include a golden staircase, the tomb of legendary medieval leader El Cid, and the Papamoscas clock featuring a cheery man who opens his mouth to mark each hour.