Ferretería

You may have seen 'Ferretería' written on signs outside hardware shops around town, because that's what the word means, and when you come into Ferretería you'll see that that's what this bar and restaurant in a century-old building used to be. Following nearly three years of remodelling, this is still a place where details are important and customers matter, where there's a key in every corner and wood covers everything – including the oak that crackles in the Leña bar.

You find yourself here, between two lively neighbourhoods, trying popular classics like 'salazones' (salt-preserved food, usually fish and meat), croquettes, Russian salad, 'morcilla' sausage from León and more. Of course quality ham is fundamental, and it's served here EGO style, EGO being the initials of one Emilio García Ortigosa, master in the art of the knife and a partner at Ferretería along with collector Toñi Escapa. García Ortigosa respects tradition, and he works with the most pristine raw materials, but from that point he's out to blow the walls off the joint. You'll get a plate of various cuts of ham in slices mixed with ginger, wasabi and roasted sesame. Escapa has made the space into something of a museum. What was already part of the cultural heritage of the city is renewed.