This is the emblematic Malasaña hang-out, packed at weekends and drowsily mellow in the afternoons, with a tiled bar and engraved mirrors, nicotine-stained walls and lazily circling ceiling fans. To drink there's vermouth, lager and Beamish on tap, plus plenty of bottled beers and a small range of wines, served (if you dare) in porrones, long-spouted drinking jars.