Other than an old sugar cane mill, a clifftop art museum and a beach with imported sand, there’s not much going on in Calheta. So you might wonder why this sleepy seaside town is home to two of Madeira’s seven Savoy hotels; the other five a forty-minute drive away in Funchal, the island’s capital. But after a long weekend spent at the newest offering, Savoy Signature’s glossy Saccharum Resort, I get why a hotel like this exists somewhere like Calheta. Saccharum makes the most of the area’s quiet, wild beauty, positioning the isolated town as a worthwhile spot to come for some real peace.
The resort is built between the hills and the ocean on the site of a former sugar cane mill; a heritage the hotel, like the town, flaunts with pride. There are chairs made from old barrels, railings modelled after sugarcanes, and random, massive pieces of old machinery sitting around. Even the restaurants are themed around the beloved regional product, with names like ‘Alambique’ and ‘Trapiche’ referencing sugarcane processes. (On that note, go to Trapiche for a poolside lunch and save the multi-course tasting menu at Alambique for that one blow-out dinner).
An ocean-facing infinity pool is the hotel’s focal point; indeed, it feels like most of the hotel convenes here, some of them paying €35 (!) for the privilege of a poolside bed. ‘Premium’ guests get access to Bali beach beds and their own sundeck, but don’t worry, there are loads of vantage points to take in the island’s rugged splendour – my go-to was the chef’s garden, built on the hillside and home to its very own miradouro (lookout point).
As for your digs? There are 196 nature-inspired rooms and suites to choose from, which will face either the courtyard, the ocean or the lush slopes the resort is built into. We stayed in one of the newly opened pool suites; a long, sleek space made up of dark mirrored surfaces and stone – quite a moody contrast to the kaleidoscopic natural surroundings outside, but very swish nonetheless.
Fancy a hike? Staff are infectiously passionate about their lovely corner of Madeira. Ask any one of them to recommend their favourite local levada walk, and they’ll tell you not only the most beautiful trails, but the easiest to get to, the lesser-explored, the easiest and toughest hikes, and the secret entry point not many know about. Were it not for their thoughtful recommendations, I wouldn’t have seen half as much of the island.
Nearby
1. Sugarcane Mill and Museum: One of Madiera’s oldest working sugarcane mills, Engenho da Calheta still churns out cane rum and honey – stop by for a tour and a tasting.
2. Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Madeira (MUDAS): A contemporary art museum in an unlikely location – on a cliff, looming over the town.
3. Onda Azul: Part of Calheta Beach Hotel, this breezy restaurant overlooks Madeira’s only golden sand beach and serves stellar seafood and local dishes. Get the charcoal bread and the limpets – a Madeiran specialty, freshly plucked and served straight from the grill.
Time Out tip
If you want to explore the island but didn’t drive here, there’s an affordable car and motorbike rental booth down by the port, about a 5-minute walk from the hotel. And look out for the town’s very own waterfall en route!