For those who can regularly afford it, there’s an L.A. omakase for every whim, reason or predilection—making it all the more remarkable that this Gardena experience ($200) manages to stand out among its much older peers, let alone the city’s new restaurant openings. Run by Katsu Sando’s Daniel Son, this South Bay sushi bar dazzles with Korean influences and California seasonality, as well the small team’s warm service. Bites like rainbow trout garnished with delicate, nutty-tasting sesame seeds and miso butter-topped tamago will leave you on cloud nine. The Korean American chef sources most of his fish from the same supplier used by the veterans at Morihiro and Shunji, yet Son fuses traditional technique with hints of bold Korean flavors and farmers’ market produce in a way that feels fresh and memorable. (This is coming from someone who’s tried 30 different L.A. omakases.) Despite having opened just this past summer, I would already rank Son’s menu among my top five omakases in L.A. If that’s the case, just imagine the heights Sushi Sonagi could reach in a year or two.
See the rest of L.A.’s best new restaurants this year.