Yama Sushi Marketplace West L.A.

Since 1984, this family-run Japanese market and sushi counter has served L.A.’s most affordable, top-shelf sashimi and maki. Founder Kenzo Yamada built a devoted local following at the San Gabriel original for his generously portioned cuts of yellowtail, tuna and salmon, not to mention the city’s best California roll, all at shockingly low prices—a feat made possible by his past career as a fish buyer for sushi restaurants. In 2021, he retired and sold the business to the Kohno family and a third partner, Alex Soto, who have since expanded to a second location in West L.A. (A third outpost in Koreatown is slated to open sometime this fall.) While a takeout meal here is definitely no-frills, Yama Sushi more than makes up for it in the quality department. On a recent visit, I found the mixed chirashi and assorted nigiri as fresh, delicious and satisfying as the day I walked into the once-shabby original a decade ago—and even after trying literally dozens of high-end L.A. omakases, I’d still happily come back here any day of the week.