After quietly opening last November, Vin Folk has emerged as one of the most interesting wine-oriented restaurants to open in greater Los Angeles. Run by fine dining veterans Kevin De Los Santos and Katya Shastova—both of whom have both worked at Somni, Vespertine and now-closed Maude—this tiny, well-appointed 45-seat restaurant offers a menu of globally inspired, French-leaning cuisine that pulls from Filipino, Spanish, Singaporean, Russian and Taiwanese foodways, among others. Located about a block from the beach, the restaurant takes over the longtime Chef Melba’s Bistro. While the co-owners have kept the spirit of the bistro alive in the space’s new iteration, Vin Folk offers far more elevated, chef-driven fare, a noteworthy beverage program and a fairly unique, polished approach to service.
Unlike most restaurants, the chefs here wear many hats, from dishwasher to server. More likely than not, you’ll be served by a staff member in chef’s whites and a blue apron, who will be more than happy to explain the backstory behind each dish served. Standout savory dishes include the chili crab risotto, which pulls inspiration from Singaporean chili crab; the beef tongue, which draws from Shastova’s Russian upbringing but imparts an Asian twist with the use of tatsoi; and the pritto, a gluten-free fried jidori chicken inspired by Taiwanese popcorn chicken that adds cubes of zucchini for textural contrast and a twist of lemon to brighten an otherwise heavy dish. On the sweet side, pastry chef Lei Elmann draws from her Filipino heritage and experiences at Destroyer and Vespertine to craft visually striking creations like the Sans Royal—a playful riff on sans rival—and the Koko Krunch, which offers chocolate six different ways and a dusting of rare Filipino sea salt.
While not every item on the menu dazzles, every dish will hit the spot, all for a fairly reasonable price. Split among two diners, the $60 family-style half jidori chicken cassoulet is a particularly great deal. Other more upmarket items like black truffle pea chawanmushi and a zingy hamachi crudo offer intrigue on the occasions you’re willing to splurge. Crowd-pleasers like dry-aged steak, crispy-skinned dorade and a handful of Asian-inflected house salads are likely to hit the spot for solo diners. If you’re in the market for just a glass of wine or two and some snacks, the pork headcheese toast, mussel tart and rye focaccia with chicken liver mousse will more than suffice.
The vibe: An intimate, 45-seat neighborhood bistro with polished service. Here, the chefs double as servers, reminiscent of a chef’s counter experience.
The food: French-leaning, globally inspired dishes imbued with the flare of modernist fine dining. Savory highlights include the chili crab, the beef tongue, the half jidori chicken and the Koko Krunch.
The drink: An eclectic mix of California and Old World wines, with over a dozen options by the glass; cider, beer and sake; aperitif cocktails; and a handful of non-alcoholic drinks, including a mocktail and excellent housemade artisanal tea blends.
Time Out tip: Order whatever verbal specials are available.