Tsubaki

It wasn’t until after I experienced the glaring inconsistencies of Venice’s RVR that I’ve come to truly appreciate the chef-driven approach of Charles Namba’s California-style izakaya in Echo Park. The seasonal inflection to traditional izakaya fare adds enough intrigue to warrant a visit the next time you’re in the general area, especially if you enjoy kushiyaki. The vegetable tempura and skillful spin on silken tofu from Gardena’s Meiji Tofu stand toe to toe with homier spots in the South Bay; the charcoal-grilled onigiri and soy-simmered black cod make for an excellent sit-down meal; and who can deny the delight of a Japanese “latke” topped with dry-aged salmon, pickled cucumbers and ikura? For more of a deep-fried snacky situation, I prefer OTOTO next door, which serves chicken karaage, heartier versions of tempura and a potato salad perfect for soaking up sommelier Courtney Kaplan’s award-winning sake program. Order the cornflake-dusted hojicha parfait for dessert—or at least the slightly cheaper standalone soft-serve.