David Lentz’s contemporary culinary outpost in Hollywood is where date night and brunch crowds pile in cushioned banquettes against stainless steel countertops. There’s no shortage of seafood options with a raw bar of goodies on the half shell and in the shell, lobster and clam rolls, several grades of caviar, plus plenty of composed plates of land and sea—better yet, opt for the eponymous seafood tower. Depending on the season, kabocha squash soup might join Nantucket bay scallops and sage brown butter or whole, grilled striped bass is dressed in carrot purée, spigarello, hazelnuts, blood orange and chermoula. Of course, another way to enjoy the fruits of the sea is an oyster with an Old Bay–rimmed, vodka chaser, as in the Maryland Mary, a tasty (and eye-opening) weekend cocktail.
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