Telefèric

30 years after first opening in a tiny town outside Barcelona, Telefèric has landed in L.A. by way of a neutral-toned dining room in Brentwood, with a specialty market next door soon to follow. Similar to its two Bay Area outposts in Los Gatos and Palo Alto, this upscale-casual chain caters to the older, monied local clientele with predictable, fairly humdrum takes on seafood paella, patatas bravas and other Spanish staples. Despite its claim to authenticity, the fare here is unfortunately less than impressive, and Angelenos would be better served to look elsewhere for Iberian cuisine. (Those into boozy tableside fun, however, will definitely enjoy drinking out of the restaurant's porróns.)