Takao

Simple and cozy, this 40-seat Brentwood joint elevates familiar dishes like that ubiquitous edamame—fresh pods are slightly steamed and salted—of eponymous owner/chef Takao Izumida, a Matsuhisa alum. Something as elementary as the Grilled King Crab leg ($18) has both sweetness and depth thanks to the high quality ingredients, while flashier dishes like New Style Sashimi with Truffle (market price), also garnished with chive, ginger and hot olive oil, bring a whiz-bang twist to a Japanese classic. Takao is one of the few LA places that offer Molokheya ($12.50), a green noodle made partially from the highly nutritious plant of the same name.