Speak Cheezy

This onetime pizza van pop-up now has a brick-and-mortar in Long Beach’s Belmont Heights, where heavenly circles of naturally leavened sourdough float out of the oven with astonishing speed. Relative to other red-hot pizzas around town, the bubbly, well-charred slices here have more definitive heft, with a menu that mixes conventional pies like margherita and pepperoni with more unique options, including the Hawaii Pie Oh, made with koji-infused tomatoes, charred pineapple, fermented jalapeños, among other market-driven toppings. Hovering around the $20 mark—dairy-free and cheese varieties aside—these pies don’t exactly come cheap, but discerning pizza fans will find plenty in the way of quality and flavor to justify the cost and effort involved.