Somni

Starting at $645 per person (a price that includes a non-alcoholic drink pairing), the newly resurrected Somni is one of the city’s most expensive, difficult-to-snag reservations. Now led by Aitor Zabala—who’s trained at El Bullí, among other Spanish fine-dining icons—the ambitious 14-seat chef’s counter offers a wealth of whimsical delights befitting of the meal’s nearly $1,000 take-home price tag. Every detail has been carefully considered, from handcarved wooden plates to the custom steak knives accompanying the txuleta, or ultra-mature steak. Another highlight? The delightfully unorthodox caviar course, served on dashi meringue. Of the four tasting menus I tried in January, Somni was the most memorable. In fact, the meal impressed me so much that I think the brand-new restaurant might already be one of the city’s very best.