Soban

Named for the low-slung tables used in traditional dining, Soban serves one of the best Korean meals in Los Angeles that doesn’t involve a tabletop grill. Instead, this no-frills eatery offers the city’s best assortment of banchan and first-rate ganjang gejang, a.k.a. soy-marinated raw crab. Though service may be brusque, no other Korean seafood spot can top Soban’s buttery, sweet crab marinated in a blend of green chilies, white onion and soy sauce. The dozen-odd banchan plates that come with each meal burst with flavor, texture and painstaking attention to detail, from the cabbage kimchi to the seasoned acorn jelly. You’ll also find excellent galbi jjim—braised short ribs—and a fiery black cod stew. Newcomers should note Soban’s early close (last call is at 8:30pm). If you can, we suggest making a reservation: Everyone from the late Jonathan Gold to Parasite’s Bong Joon-ho has dined at Soban—so unless you’re visiting on a weekday afternoon, you’ll very likely have to wait for a table otherwise.