Toum, a silky emulsion of garlic and oil, is a cornerstone of Lebanese cooking, and the creamy, pungent whip pairs beautifully with the country’s kebabs, which offer a subtler kind of pleasure than Persian or Armenian meat skewers. We’ve found no better place in the city for both than Skaf’s, a family-run operation with outposts in North Hollywood, Glendale and Highland Park. The kebabs here come still warm on the stick, with grilled bell peppers and onions sandwiched in between each hunk of meat and a mound of loose rice pilaf topped with tangy sumac and chopped mint. A side of bright pink turnips and thinly sliced onions add brightness and acidity to your kebab meal. The kebabs—including the best-in-class shawarma—are what get you in the door, but don’t neglect the harder-to-find Lebanese specialties here either—we loved the jallab (a refreshing drink made of rosewater, date molasses and pine nuts) and the kibbeh (a mix of ground meat, bulgur wheat, and spices, available both tartare-style and fried into crispy footballs).
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