Shin-Sen-Gumi West L.A.

At the northern end of Sawtelle, this Hakata-based chain stalwart serves a lighter bowl of tonkotsu ramen that’s just as memorable as the richer options down the street. Look over the order sheet, where you can customize your bowl to your exact specifications—choose the intensity (i.e. saltiness) of your broth, the doneness of your noodles and toppings (egg, wontons, spare ribs, garlic ships, even cod roe)—and combine chicken rice balls, deep fried cheese egg rolls and gyoza additions. Half the fun is ordering too many toppings on your first visit, which will arrive one after another in a parade of bowls, but the fried rice bowls and other specials here are done just as well.