Ruen Pair

Angelenos rhapsodize about Thai Town’s Ruen Pair with a fervor that borders on obsession. At this round-the-clock, cash-only favorite, the enticing Southeast Asian menu is full of beer-friendly, shareable plates like fish cake pad ka prow ($6.95), spongy, light rounds sautéed in basil leaves and vibrant chilies, that justify a visit on their own. Stir-fry of Chinese olive and ground pork ($6.25) is served with crispy bits of flavorful pork, bright Chinese olives and fresh garlic paired alongside a bowl of steaming rice. Pair with an order of sautéed morning glory—ask for it with crispy pork belly—for the ultimate late-night Thai combo.