Restaurant Ki

After a nearly yearlong stint at Jordan Kahn’s Vespertine and Meteora, chef Ki Kim is once again pushing the boundaries of modern Korean fine dining. Located in the same Little Tokyo complex as Sushi Kaneyoshi and Bar Sawa, the chef's new tasting experience ($285) reads as a more elevated, satisfying version of Kinn, Kim’s now-closed Koreatown restaurant. Kimbap topped with creamy cod milt serves as a worthy appetizer to a 12-course menu that nods to the head chef’s personal biography and past experiences on both coasts working fine dining. I’ve been familiar with Kim’s cooking since Naemo, his quarantine era dosirak pop-up, and can honestly say that Ki is the chef’s most fully realized project to date. A $190 beverage pairing spanning wine, sake and tea, along with ultra-polished service, befit the high price point and translate into a worthy special-occasion eatery for those who enjoy Korean cuisine, rare seafood, fine dining or all of the above.