Night + Market Sahm

Night + Market Sahm is the third outpost of Kris Yenbamroong’s trendy new-school Thai mini-chain. Known for its salty, spicy cuisine, natural wine list and party-like atmosphere, the restaurant has even expanded to Las Vegas. In the last few years, the buzz around Night + Market as dissipated to a sensible murmur—and while the Lincoln Boulevard location is easier to get into than ever before, the restaurant’s street food-inspired menu still fires on all cylinders. Salt-forward signatures like the party wings and pastrami pad kee mao pair well with a glass of beer or wine, though you can find Thai takeout standards like pad thai, massaman curry and som tum (papaya salad) with their flavors cranked all the way up. Compared to its siblings in West Hollywood and Silver Lake, Night + Market Sahm offers a little more space and a far less hectic crowd. Other standouts include the nam khao tod (crispy rice salad), moo sadoong (startled pig) and three flavor whole fish, the last of which is available only for dine-in customers. Also, the fried chicken sandwich here is one of the best in the city—but since it’s a meal unto itself, I wouldn’t recommend ordering unless you’re going all in on it.