This Alhambra hot spot is under new ownership but is adamant that the recipes haven't changed, and thank goodness: Their dark pho broth has echoes of star anise and is beautifully balanced by the unusual infusions of lemongrass, sesame and dried shrimp. The result is a glistening bowl of soup generously studded with meltingly tender Kobe-style beef, imported from Australia. It's accompanied by pure white bean sprouts and both Thai basil and ngo gai, also known as culantro or sawtooth, which adds a delicate vegetal note. If you begin with the house-made, finely ground charbroiled pork meatball, suddenly all your meat fantasies will seem possible.
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