Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa

A world of no-frills culinary delight awaits those who visit this cash-only strip mall restaurant in Alhambra. From the parking lot, you can already smell the heady, fragrant spices used in pho, but Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa is better known for its namesake grilled pork sausage served in fresh rice paper—a.k.a. nem nuong cuon—and saucers of banh beo, a specialty from central Vietnam. Topped with shredded pork or dried shrimp, the delicate cakes made of rice and tapioca flour draw the subtle flavors out of their accoutrements, especially when doused in chili-spiked nuoc cham (fish sauce vinaigrette). For a family-style feast for two to four, order the dac biet cho ("special order") for a build-your-own summer roll affair that includes lettuce, three kinds of meat and ultra-thin shrimp egg rolls, plus a green mountain of herbs.