If you remember anything at all about the original Mo-Chica, block it out of your mind. The original was absolutely terrible. But the new rendition—an actual restaurant with a full bar, valet parking, waiters and commissioned graffiti artwork—is terrific (a downscale version of Picca, chef/owner Ricardo Zarate’s Westside flagship). Zarate has certainly come a long way. His modern interpretation of Peruvian comfort food has gracefully matured. He has finally grown into his perhaps-too-early praise. Consider the mackerel tiradito, Peruvian sashimi at its finest, splashed with ginger-garlic sauce and sesame oil. And do not skip the blood sausage slathered atop crostini with a soft fried egg.
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